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Thread: shock absorber replacement...

  1. 22nd June 2009, 10:49 PM #1
    Zej Guest

    shock absorber replacement...

    The left rear damper/shock absorber on my '86 RRC has been crapping itself over the last couple of days and finally kicked the bucket (with a spectacular "CLUNK!" and uncontrolled bobbing on the left rear of the vehicle!).

    Rather than taking it back to the mechanics again, I'm planning to replace them myself (I assume you replace both left and right dampers at the same time?) as it looks quite do-able. Is it just a simple un-bolting of the old ones and bolting the new ones in, or are there adjustments that need to be made?

    The old units are Gabriels (fitted with the 2" springs).
    Would the lift make a difference to which shocks I buy? I was thinking of getting these:
    Bilstein Heavy Duty Rear Shock Absorber to suit Land Rover Range Rover 72-8/94 - Bilstein Shock Absorbers - Shock Absorbers - Suspension - 4x4 Store Australia

    Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
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  2. 23rd June 2009, 04:36 AM #2
    Pierre
    Pierre is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    Give AMV a ring (9870 9904) talk to Greg. He will have Bilsteins at competitive prices. They are in East Ringwood.

    HTH

    Pete
    Dizzie, 08 D3 TDV6 SE
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  3. 23rd June 2009, 08:14 AM #3
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    buzz66
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    Compressing the top rubber to get the second hole to put the split pin in will have you thinking again depending on what model you have.
    I beleive you can thread and nut this. Just a thought.
    Getting the split pin in the first hole is a piece of cake BTW.
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  4. 23rd June 2009, 08:19 AM #4
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    350RRC
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    Quote Originally Posted by buzz66 View Post
    Compressing the top rubber to get the second hole to put the split pin in will have you thinking again depending on what model you have.
    Hi,

    I used to do that, but there is really no point. First hole is all I've used for yonks.

    The rubbers don't last any longer and will flex less the more they are compressed.

    cheers, DL
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  5. 23rd June 2009, 11:15 AM #5
    big_waity
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    Quote Originally Posted by buzz66 View Post
    Compressing the top rubber to get the second hole to put the split pin in will have you thinking again depending on what model you have.
    I beleive you can thread and nut this. Just a thought.
    Getting the split pin in the first hole is a piece of cake BTW.
    There's a split pin for the top rubbers?
    On my 1990 Rangie there is a thread and a nut, is this not original?

    I recently swapped the rear shocks on mine and it took about 20 minutes.
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  6. 23rd June 2009, 11:43 AM #6
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    HangOver
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    Quote Originally Posted by big_waity View Post
    There's a split pin for the top rubbers?
    On my 1990 Rangie there is a thread and a nut, is this not original?

    I recently swapped the rear shocks on mine and it took about 20 minutes.
    81" RRC here and my shocks are threaded too.

    undo a couple of bolts jack it up, pretty easy job. Watch how high you jack though so your break lines dont extend too much.
    Actually have a good look at them if they are perished change them at the same time.
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  7. 23rd June 2009, 01:10 PM #7
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by big_waity View Post
    There's a split pin for the top rubbers?
    On my 1990 Rangie there is a thread and a nut, is this not original?
    Quote Originally Posted by HangOver View Post
    81" RRC here and my shocks are threaded too.
    Yep ... 1990 RRC has a split pin & washer for the top rubbers

    Mike1990RRC
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  8. 23rd June 2009, 06:09 PM #8
    big_waity
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    Yep ... 1990 RRC has a split pin & washer for the top rubbers

    Mike1990RRC
    Mine doesn't!
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  9. 23rd June 2009, 06:36 PM #9
    McDisco Guest
    Just make sure you replace both rears. If you use different ones they may be valved differently and have a different dampening effect. You may notice the difference in behaviour.

    Angus
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  10. 23rd June 2009, 11:08 PM #10
    Zej Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by McDisco View Post
    Just make sure you replace both rears. If you use different ones they may be valved differently and have a different dampening effect. You may notice the difference in behaviour.

    Angus
    Yup, thought so. That's what I plan to do.

    So do you jack the chassis up to let the axle droop a little to remove the shock, or do you just remove the wheel and plonk the axle on stands?
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