Thread: What did you do on your Perentie Today.

Originally Posted by dranoweb

They look like long pop rivets through the nut.

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

It looks like there is a plastic/rubber cover over the threads after the nuts. Can you cut that off so you can take the nuts off?

Just checked my GS - same thing.

I'm just going to undo the nuts inside the tool boxes to take them off. They are actually a stud rather than a bolt. really odd setup. Especially odd when they are shown as normal bolts in the RPS, unless it is a mod of some sort.
EDIT!
Just found another RPS where it lists it as a 1/4" x 2" STUD (RRC5533) !!! And there is a "Cap Protective Stud" (RRC5677) also listed. Mystery solved. The RPS does not have any illustration of the part, just the part details listed.
Now to try to make sense of WHY!?!>

So I did alot today.

Replaced forward bash plate bolts.
replaced park light globes
replaced fuses (again)
Lost dash lights (again)
Pulled dash out (again)
Found what speedo cable was rubbing on
realligned speedo in dash.
Got dash lights back
Put dash back in and list dash lights again. - gave up.
replaced door top studs
replaced door top seals with new style.
Replaced custom switch in dash to isolate feedback into reverse lights.
fitted 40 watt pair of solar panels and ran wire to battery box.

Note, studs were buggered.
and land rover dealer supplied a new type of door seal that looks like it might solve some of the leaking issues.



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Originally Posted by Aussie Jeepster

I'm just going to undo the nuts inside the tool boxes to take them off. They are actually a stud rather than a bolt. really odd setup. Especially odd when they are shown as normal bolts in the RPS, unless it is a mod of some sort.
EDIT!
Just found another RPS where it lists it as a 1/4" x 2" STUD (RRC5533) !!! And there is a "Cap Protective Stud" (RRC5677) also listed. Mystery solved. The RPS does not have any illustration of the part, just the part details listed.
Now to try to make sense of WHY!?!>

Land rover

Originally Posted by dranoweb

So I did alot today.

Replaced forward bash plate bolts.
replaced park light globes
replaced fuses (again)
Lost dash lights (again)
Pulled dash out (again)
Found what speedo cable was rubbing on
realligned speedo in dash.
Got dash lights back
Put dash back in and list dash lights again. - gave up.
replaced door top studs
replaced door top seals with new style.
Replaced custom switch in dash to isolate feedback into reverse lights.
fitted 40 watt pair of solar panels and ran wire to battery box.

Note, studs were buggered.
and land rover dealer supplied a new type of door seal that looks like it might solve some of the leaking issues.



Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

That's a busy day! Those lights sound like a frustrating problem.
Are you popping fuses when you lose your dash lights, or are they just going out?
IIRC the lights are powered from a line that comes from a separate fuse in the central control box, maybe that line or fuse has a fault in it?

Originally Posted by Chris078

That's a busy day! Those lights sound like a frustrating problem.
Are you popping fuses when you lose your dash lights, or are they just going out?
IIRC the lights are powered from a line that comes from a separate fuse in the central control box, maybe that line or fuse has a fault in it?

Intermittent. Been wriggling/replacing fuses in the box under the dash with mixed results.
I also found a seprate t2 blade socket loose, that has intermittent power too.

Originally, I was reversing, (with extra tail lights engaged)
Heard an arc/fizzle that sounded like a blade fuse blowing coming from the proximity of the dimmer control.
One headlight went out (drivers)
I then turned lights off, stopped, and disengaged reverse, and isolated the revrse light circuit.

headlight returned when switched on again a few moments later, but dash lights were gone.

I suspect dimmer switch at this stage, but have run out of time to check.
I'm considering running my own loom to the dash with double insulated wire.

Originally Posted by dranoweb

Intermittent. Been wriggling/replacing fuses in the box under the dash with mixed results.
I also found a seprate t2 blade socket loose, that has intermittent power too.

Originally, I was reversing, (with extra tail lights engaged)
Heard an arc/fizzle that sounded like a blade fuse blowing coming from the proximity of the dimmer control.
One headlight went out (drivers)
I then turned lights off, stopped, and disengaged reverse, and isolated the revrse light circuit.

headlight returned when switched on again a few moments later, but dash lights were gone.

I suspect dimmer switch at this stage, but have run out of time to check.
I'm considering running my own loom to the dash with double insulated wire.

You can just bypass the dimmer switch if you find out it is the culprit. IMO they are nothing but a problem. Disconnect both wires behind the switch and join them together.

Originally Posted by Bearman

You can just bypass the dimmer switch if you find out it is the culprit. IMO they are nothing but a problem. Disconnect both wires behind the switch and join them together.

The only problem then is that the instrument lights are on all the time (when the ign is on) ?? So, I'm wondering if a better solution is to wire in a two pole on/off switch instead of the dimmer ?