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Thread: What did you do on your Perentie Today.

  1. #1141
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87County View Post
    The only problem then is that the instrument lights are on all the time (when the ign is on) ?? So, I'm wondering if a better solution is to wire in a two pole on/off switch instead of the dimmer ?
    Instrument lights in a Perentie are always illuminated when the ignition is on anyway, so that's no different.

    It's just a weird failure. headlights going out then coming back on ... loose/faulty block connector (those black plugs with 6-8 wires on each side) maybe.
    Hopefully Dranoweb can find it without ripping out too much of the dash/his hair!

  2. #1142
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    The blackout dimmer switch in mine is dodgy and puts the dash lights out unless I fiddle with it. Probably not the same issue but worth a mention.

  3. #1143
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris078 View Post
    Instrument lights in a Perentie are always illuminated when the ignition is on anyway, so that's no different.
    Except when they are off from the dimmer turned all the way down.

    I personally wouldn't want my dash lights on all the time, I would be inclined to put them through a relay with the park lights.

  4. #1144
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadCo. View Post
    Except when they are off from the dimmer turned all the way down.

    I personally wouldn't want my dash lights on all the time, I would be inclined to put them through a relay with the park lights.
    Somewhat similar to my plans.
    I have auxiliary switches in my dash mod.
    I'm considering using a spare for dash lights.

    Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

  5. #1145
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadCo. View Post
    Except when they are off from the dimmer turned all the way down.

    I personally wouldn't want my dash lights on all the time, I would be inclined to put them through a relay with the park lights.

    Is that a personal preference or a 'don't trust Lucas wiring' thing?

    I never notice them during the day, even when they're turned all the way up.

  6. #1146
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris078 View Post
    Is that a personal preference or a 'don't trust Lucas wiring' thing?

    I never notice them during the day, even when they're turned all the way up.
    Does anyone trust lucas wiring?
    I mezn the perentie has a lucas mode switch aka "blackout" switch.

    Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

  7. #1147
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    If your concerned about Lucas, stop worrying, Joseph Lucas Ltd as a manufacturing company doesn't exist anymore.

    If you buy modern Lucas components with a Lucas brand, it is only a licenced use of the name and or patterns. But for originality don't have any concerns the spirit of the Prince of Darkness is infused into every item.

    What did I do on my Perentie, I retrofitted a Lucas headlamp bucket and Lucas insert to replace the unbranded and clouded insert present when it came out of service. As usual I have to play with the fuse panel, but the problem was a corroded effectively blown fuse. I guess that probably what happens when you spend your service life at Shoalwater Bay training area and Cape Yorke.

    Fitted in two radio tables, but the annoying thing is that the ATU interface cable for the MX-6707 doesn't fit through the hole in the body?

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  8. #1148
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    If your concerned about Lucas, stop worrying, Joseph Lucas Ltd as a manufacturing company doesn't exist anymore.

    If you buy modern Lucas components with a Lucas brand, it is only a licenced use of the name and or patterns. But for originality don't have any concerns the spirit of the Prince of Darkness is infused into every item.

    What did I do on my Perentie, I retrofitted a Lucas headlamp bucket and Lucas insert to replace the unbranded and clouded insert present when it came out of service. As usual I have to play with the fuse panel, but the problem was a corroded effectively blown fuse. I guess that probably what happens when you spend your service life at Shoalwater Bay training area and Cape Yorke.

    Fitted in two radio tables, but the annoying thing is that the ATU interface cable for the MX-6707 doesn't fit through the hole in the body?
    heh. Mine started life in Townsville. at some point it got flooded to halfway up the headlights (found a perfect mudline across the bowl when I took them out) . I'm pretty sure it was flooded in one of the cyclones up there as it seems that it got flooded and then sat as the water slowly receded. The chassis was full (solid) of mud. every nook and cranny was full of rock hard dried mud.
    When I pulled the dash out to fix a wiring fault (surprise, surprise) a couple of weeks ago, I found that I had no airflow because the dash where the air was meant to flow was (drum roll) filled with mud!

    I've spent hundreds and many hours pulling apart, cleaning and replacing most of the connectors in the car, the original barrel fuse panel (that was so rusted you couldn't remove the barrel fuses in 2 instances) along with flushing the dash, engine bay and chassis of mud.

    It's a testament to this thing that despite this incredibly poor treatment, it still goes strong with minimal rust/corrosion.

  9. #1149
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    Yeah i think ill remove and clean every fuse and remove the fuse holder and check carefully.

    Also going to buy a couple of tins of "electrical clean and lube" from jaycar.

    Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

  10. #1150
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    Quote Originally Posted by dranoweb View Post
    Yeah i think ill remove and clean every fuse and remove the fuse holder and check carefully.

    Also going to buy a couple of tins of "electrical clean and lube" from jaycar.

    Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

    might be worth checking the connector on the back of the fuse panel (where the fuse plugs into) as well. might be something loose/corroded there that is causing the random drops/shorts.

    I used a spray can of contact cleaner to clean them, a wire brush if corroded/stubborn mud (lots of that in the rear lights harness) then coated with Lanolin once I'd reassembled the connection.
    No troubles since I've done that and I'm hoping it will keep the corrosion at bay.

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