Maybe not necessary but advisable. Salt water is nasty stuff. Galvanised metal still can rust.Quote:
Originally Posted by mattmac
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Maybe not necessary but advisable. Salt water is nasty stuff. Galvanised metal still can rust.Quote:
Originally Posted by mattmac
Not to mention axle housings, brake backing plates, fuel tank etc.
Make sure you get fishoil or lanolin etc in between the fuel tank protection plate and the bottom of the tank. Also the lower door frames are hollow steel sections and need to be sprayed internally. Dont forget the bonnet frame also. Undo a screw on each door hinge at the firewall mount and go in from there. The ribs in the footwells are double skinned and need a small hole drilled to treat properly.
Thanks for the door hinge and footwell tips Mark2. I'll get onto it.
Cheers
rust
Well I found out that the scum sucking so and so that sold me my Personell Carrier had done ANOTHER dodgy. Had it up on the hoist for the first time and there was a rag around the crankcase breather pipe. Well it was taken off and after not using a drop of oil in the last 7000kn in a 700km trip yesterday it used HALF DIPSTICK of oil. Looks like it needs another rag on it.
Iwill be doing a full post on how I have been ripped off by this private seller so that anyone else can think twice before buying from him.:censored:
I don't know why it would breath so much oil. Ive fitted a prevent which drains back into the crank. Its really just a oil catcher at the moment. Buts its a possibility for your problem.
If you do a bit of beach work like me, this is singularly the best bit of maintenance advice. Its so easy to do, only two screws each side. I use a product called corrosion block. My firewall is mostly galled (other than pass side A pillar as needed to repair it after being dipped) but still spray it around.Quote:
Originally Posted by mark2
Do this once a year and your fire wall will be rust free. Ive drilled several holes in my door frames to spray the same stuff about. Spraying some type of rust inhibiter is also a really good idea. Corrosion block or another type of penetrating oil for between the steel frame and skin will definitely help with alloy corrosion.
Replaced both H4 base's as ground terminals were gone on both :eek:
Also found the 'mod' the keeps headlights on after ignition off
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/04/185.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/04/186.jpg
Finally got around to changing the oil. I did the engine and gearbox today with Caltex RX Super and a Donaldson Oil Filter. (P550422) For those interested the oil filter was $35 from Repco and the oil was $95 for 20l from Super Cheap at the 20% off sale last week.
Can someone help with a photo of where the drain and fill plugs are on the transfer case, I spent a lot of time looking for the plug and comparing to drawings in the workshop manual but I can't find it anywhere (it must be there !!). Is the same drain and fill on the TC used for the PTO as well or is this separate again ?
Andrew.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cinan
If you changed the gearbox oil, the fill for the transfer is on the rear of the housing, with the drain on the transfer cover plate. The PTO is part of the transfer box