Yeah I have seen it. It would be more cost effective for me to go hydraulic then to get that PTO sent over here![]()
But still good value at that price. Try buying one new - you wont get any change from $6000 and that price was about 10 years ago. The winch itself is around 3K and the PTO unit with overload torque limiter assembly is about the same. And don't even try to compare it to an electric one!!! Not in the same street.
Cheers......Brian
1985 110 V8 County
1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)
Yeah I have seen it. It would be more cost effective for me to go hydraulic then to get that PTO sent over here![]()
Got new tyres and rims fitted. Finally. My old ones were shot. The tyres had started 'egging' on the sidewalls. Then the rim supplier didn't bother to tell my tyre guy that the boat had been delayed a month until we rang asking where the rims were.
My Tyre guy is great though, phoned around stores and found this set of 4 second had ones (used once, guy decided he didn't like the look of them once they had been put on his car apparently). When the new rims arrive he's going to swap them over and do my spare.
The rims are Dynamic 16x7 +20 1400Kg rated. Tyres are Hankook RF10 235/85r16. After just a small drive home I can tell the difference made is huge, definitely does not wander as much as the old Steeltreks!
Last edited by Chris078; 4th September 2015 at 05:13 PM. Reason: no selling in the main forum
I got time today to throw some paint stripper on the bullbar to get it back to bare gal. The job's not finished, but it's looking good.
It's so shiny it looks like it was dipped yesterday. I'll have an embarrassing few weeks of a shiny bullbar until it dulls down to match the very dull bare gal Wolf rims. I also dropped some things around at the blasters in preparation for another galvanising run next week (that's why the grille and winch plate are off in the first picture).
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Mine are 16x7 too (corrected in my post)
You should definitely change those wheel nuts! This is why you can find threads of people complaining about bad handling after changing rims.
The reason is that the old rims are hub centric, the hub takes the load and centres the wheel. The nuts just hold it to the backplate.
On Dynamic rims, they are lug-centric. The Lugs centre the wheel and take the load. If you look closely, you will see a small gap between the hub and wheel when the Dynamic rim is fitted. If you use the normal nuts, the taper is incorrect, which means the rim can move about on the lug.
This is bad. it's uncomfortable, and very dangerous as it results in broken lugs, wrecked rims and wheels coming off.
First you should go to your tyre guy and question why he set you up in such a dangerous fashion. Then you should tell him to buy you a set of nuts. These will have the right taper to lock the wheels so they won't move about.
<edit again> just took a new one off my wheel and checked.The nuts are definitely different. The landrover nuts have a 45? rounded taper. The ones supplied by my tyre shop are a 60? flat taper.
I've sent an e-mail to Dynamic for clarification, will post back when I get a reply.
Last edited by Chris078; 5th September 2015 at 10:46 AM. Reason: removed agression from post
This will be good...
Yeah I've read all the threads regarding hub centric rings etc. my understanding was that the taper on the steel wheels was fine for aftermarket wheels - I even checked with LRA when I bought them.
My guy told me that the Land Rover nuts have a 45 degree taper and the Dynamic ones are 60 degree, or the other way round, I forget.
Or he could have just said that to get me to buy $60 worth of nuts......
can anyone chime in with what angle the Landrover taper is?
Might be worth ringing Dynamic directly and finding out from them what taper is required.
<edit> the nut used by my supplier (supposedly a Dynamic nut) and Land Rover nut have a different taper (60? vs 45?). I've sent an e-mail to Dynamic asking them to confirm what angle is correct for the rim.
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