Thread: What did you do on your Perentie Today.

The last seat install we did cost around $2500 with compliance.

Originally Posted by mick88

Spent the best part of the day trying to isolate an issue with the rear lights not working and the left indicator blowing a fuse every now and again when it feels like it. Might have tracked the rear light problem down to the "blackout" switch.
Still a work in progress!




Cheers, Mick.

Hi Mick, if you are still chasing this, have a close look at the wiring where it comes out of the rear chassis, then follow it along where the brackets hold it in place up the the rear lights.
Good chance it's rubbed through there, or where it goes in and out of the rear cross-member.

If after that you're still chasing, disconnect the wiring from the right rear light, and pull the wiring out of the rear cross-member. You will find that the factory 5 pin trailer socket was left attached, just shoved inside the cross-member. If it's anything like mine was, it's full of mud, corroded to hell and causing shorts as the mud soaked up moisture and dried out again.
Lost a lot of hair finding that one!

Factory 5 pin connector? Maybe this is my little gremlin as well.
Since yesterday I have no indicators, no flasher can noise either. BUT the hazard lights bulb functions and flasher can are perfectly fine. I suppose the hazard circuit has its own flasher and its own lamp connector?

Took Yo Yo in a march - the Men From Snowy River Commemoration at Delegate.
The Men From Snowy River | Delegate | New South Wales | Australia

A good weekend, very memorable.

Slept in the swag.

8 pics in album: https://goo.gl/photos/MBFcDAerKmjsWGeD6

Originally Posted by Carzee

...... I suppose the hazard circuit has its own flasher and its own lamp connector?

No there is only one flasher. I would look at the hazard switch. Somewhere on the internet I found some info to check the wiring by bypassing the hazard switch. That is what I did to diagnose the switch as the problem.

Thanks Chris,
I will do that.
Spent half of yesterday trying troubleshoot the problem, slowly making progress. It originally started with the left indicators occasionally cooking a fuse then eventually they decided they wanted to play dead. Finally the right ones went out in sympathy as did the tail lights. Main issue is now is I don't have any power getting to the combination switch. The wiring behind the dash is a nightmare in these things with all the add-ons for blackout switching etc. Ohh and not to mention using "red" for an earth, brown and blue as positives becomes a tad confusing when your brain dead from trying to track the problem.


Cheers, Mick.

LEDs mick. That will solve half your problems. Those old dome fittings are rubbish, and those rear combination fittings aren't too flash either.

My brake globe would rattle lose then short out when I applied the brakes.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

I installed a turbo kit from KLR into 48-749 over the long weekend.
Had a few extra things to do as well (new heater matrix, radiator rod and clean, clean out water ways in the block, head and thermostat, reposition the air cleaner brackets to suit a new Donaldson air cleaner) and haven't got the rad back yet so no test drive yet ( Cant wait, sounds awesome !!).
I took Monday off and the install was complete in 3 1/2 days.
Started first go.


If anybody is considering a turbo I highly recommend the KLR kit.
It is high quality, complete and comprehensive.
The instructions and included photo's are good and the sequence is easy to follow.
It costs $3050 at the moment and excluding the exhaust (I've been quoted $800 for a 2 1/2" mild steel system complete, fitted) and some sealants you don't need anything else except tools. Very minimal welding and grinding and everything is well thought out and all fits.


Photo's and road report to follow when I get the rad back !!


Regards,