Here you go.
STEPS 1 & 2
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFA_wHh5bqM[/ame]
STEPS 3,4 and 5.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ReMCFMlhz8E[/ame]
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Here you go.
STEPS 1 & 2
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFA_wHh5bqM[/ame]
STEPS 3,4 and 5.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ReMCFMlhz8E[/ame]
 Master
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SupporterHi Solidrock
Was wondering how long it took to strip the window glass from the door-tops and fit the Garrison seals? I'm down to the last day of my Christmas hols - had lots of good intentions - and still haven't fitted the seal kit to my door-tops though come hell or high water I intend to take the tops off tomorrow morning and start-in on them. I'll be replacing the rubber strip between the door-tops and door-bottoms as well due to them being perished, though they're on back-order and won't be in till late next week.
Cheers, Dave
Hi Cummo, it took about an hour and a bit to do both of my door tops.
A decent portion of time was spent gently prying the aluminium panel that holds the rails and windows into the frame as after it was de-riveted I found it had also been siliconed on, but I subsequently saved time on removing the existing felts as they weren't glued in, so I didn't have to bother with the goo gone etc. So all up, if you have stock standard "unmodified" tops I think an hour is all you need.
 Master
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SupporterThanks Solidrock!
Doesn't sound like as big a job as I thought it would be. As usual though my wife had other plans for my last day of hols so I didn't get to take the door-tops off after all - still No. 1 on the playlist of Perentie tasks though.
Cheers, Dave
 Master
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SupporterI'm just trying to fit my Garrison Door kit. I have removed all the screws, and have also noticed that the frames doesn't "simply" lift out. I have noticed the silicone also, did you just use force to remove this?? I also had one of the those screw heads shear offbut have drilled it out, but there might still be a burr or something, but even accounting for that the blasted thing doesn't move at all !!
PLEASE IGNORE MANAGED TO GET THE BLASTED THING OFF !!
Last edited by Paultan; 7th January 2015 at 03:23 PM. Reason: Issue resolved !
 Master
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SupporterLast edited by Paultan; 7th January 2015 at 03:23 PM. Reason: Issue resolved !!
 Wizard
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Wizard
					
					
						SubscriberIn a bid to stop the window rattles and whistles on 48-749 (4x4 Perentie) I tried draft seals from B....gs-cheap and not fully successful.
Had a look at Garrisons seal kit- looks great but $275 locally? Expensive for what it is. The kit from the USA costs about $150-still too expensive 'cos I'm a tightarse.
Bought some flocked Bailey channel (serial number 350.360) from MVR Industrial in Penrith. I bought 5m and had 400mm left over.
The installation took 2 hours and the result is really good. No rattles or whistles at last!!!
It cost $12.50/m, total $62,50 incl GST. Much better!!
MVR can be found at 1/44 Peachtree Rd, Penrith, NSW 0404298064
They have all kind of rubber seals, pinchweld, screen rubbers and many other shapes and sizes. Check their web site. Highly recommended.
Regards,
Phil B
Custodian of:
1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
1978 S3 swb canvas
48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
1985 County with 4BD1T
I repaired my windows with the standard parts and it made a huge difference.
One thing that I did while I had it all out was to repair/modify the window locks. (RRC4878 & RRC4879) What I did was cut a small rectangle of high density plastic about 2.5mm thick and squeezed it into the plastic locking mechanism above the cam follower.
This made the engagement more positive and the locking function work again.
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
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