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Thread: perentie sliding window removal

  1. #21
    Join Date
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    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by cummo View Post
    Charlie A,

    The passenger-side window on my Perentie rattles like a machine gun - I thought after 30+ years of driving a Series 1 I was pretty tolerant of rattles but that glass rattle is like fingernails on a blackboard x 10 to me! Unfortunately it's also right next to my missus's left ear which means I tend to get a lot of death-stares also.....I currently have it packed with various bits of foam and rubber insertion so it's as quiet as I can get it, but it's also permanently closed as a result.


    X 2
    Folded up bit of cardboard solving the problem at present!
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  2. #22
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    Nov 2014
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    Arizona
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    Here you go.


    STEPS 1 & 2
    [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFA_wHh5bqM[/ame]

    STEPS 3,4 and 5.
    [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ReMCFMlhz8E[/ame]

  3. #23
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    Jan 2009
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    Medowie, NSW
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    Hi Solidrock

    Was wondering how long it took to strip the window glass from the door-tops and fit the Garrison seals? I'm down to the last day of my Christmas hols - had lots of good intentions - and still haven't fitted the seal kit to my door-tops though come hell or high water I intend to take the tops off tomorrow morning and start-in on them. I'll be replacing the rubber strip between the door-tops and door-bottoms as well due to them being perished, though they're on back-order and won't be in till late next week.

    Cheers, Dave

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by cummo View Post
    Hi Solidrock

    Was wondering how long it took to strip the window glass from the door-tops and fit the Garrison seals?
    Hi Cummo, it took about an hour and a bit to do both of my door tops.

    A decent portion of time was spent gently prying the aluminium panel that holds the rails and windows into the frame as after it was de-riveted I found it had also been siliconed on, but I subsequently saved time on removing the existing felts as they weren't glued in, so I didn't have to bother with the goo gone etc. So all up, if you have stock standard "unmodified" tops I think an hour is all you need.

  5. #25
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    Medowie, NSW
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    Thanks Solidrock!
    Doesn't sound like as big a job as I thought it would be. As usual though my wife had other plans for my last day of hols so I didn't get to take the door-tops off after all - still No. 1 on the playlist of Perentie tasks though.
    Cheers, Dave

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by solidrock View Post
    I have installed the garrison outfitters kit and I must say that in my particular case the improvement is amazing, I can't believe how much noise the windows were making, I knew it was a lot but wow. The side glass on my GS is 4mm.

    Installation was pretty straightforward, a few surprises with my door tops involving silicon and screws for rivets and vice versa - but it adds to the mystery I guess

    pics attached.
    I'm just trying to fit my Garrison Door kit. I have removed all the screws, and have also noticed that the frames doesn't "simply" lift out. I have noticed the silicone also, did you just use force to remove this?? I also had one of the those screw heads shear off but have drilled it out, but there might still be a burr or something, but even accounting for that the blasted thing doesn't move at all !!

    PLEASE IGNORE MANAGED TO GET THE BLASTED THING OFF !!
    Last edited by Paultan; 7th January 2015 at 03:23 PM. Reason: Issue resolved !

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by solidrock View Post
    Hi Cummo, it took about an hour and a bit to do both of my door tops.

    A decent portion of time was spent gently prying the aluminium panel that holds the rails and windows into the frame as after it was de-riveted I found it had also been siliconed on, but I subsequently saved time on removing the existing felts as they weren't glued in, so I didn't have to bother with the goo gone etc. So all up, if you have stock standard "unmodified" tops I think an hour is all you need.
    Opps should have read all the posts before I posted my last one Solidrock

    Do you have any tips on how to remove the aluminium panel, was it brute force??

    PLEASE IGNORE MANAGED TO GET THE BLASTED THING OFF !!
    Last edited by Paultan; 7th January 2015 at 03:23 PM. Reason: Issue resolved !!

  8. #28
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    Feb 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paultan View Post

    Opps should have read all the posts before I posted my last one Solidrock

    Do you have any tips on how to remove the aluminium panel, was it brute force??

    PLEASE IGNORE MANAGED TO GET THE BLASTED THING OFF !!
    Haha no worries, the info is always in the last place you look, often after you've already asked the question...happens to me all the time!

    Good to hear you managed to sort the tops out, hope the seals work as well for you as they did for me.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    Sydney
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    Perentie sliding window seals

    In a bid to stop the window rattles and whistles on 48-749 (4x4 Perentie) I tried draft seals from B....gs-cheap and not fully successful.
    Had a look at Garrisons seal kit- looks great but $275 locally? Expensive for what it is. The kit from the USA costs about $150-still too expensive 'cos I'm a tightarse.
    Bought some flocked Bailey channel (serial number 350.360) from MVR Industrial in Penrith. I bought 5m and had 400mm left over.
    The installation took 2 hours and the result is really good. No rattles or whistles at last!!!
    It cost $12.50/m, total $62,50 incl GST. Much better!!
    MVR can be found at 1/44 Peachtree Rd, Penrith, NSW 0404298064
    They have all kind of rubber seals, pinchweld, screen rubbers and many other shapes and sizes. Check their web site. Highly recommended.


    Regards,
    Phil B

    Custodian of:
    1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
    1978 S3 swb canvas
    48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
    1985 County with 4BD1T

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    East-South-East Girt-By-Sea
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    I repaired my windows with the standard parts and it made a huge difference.

    One thing that I did while I had it all out was to repair/modify the window locks. (RRC4878 & RRC4879) What I did was cut a small rectangle of high density plastic about 2.5mm thick and squeezed it into the plastic locking mechanism above the cam follower.

    This made the engagement more positive and the locking function work again.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

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