PAS Install

Hey mate, that is bad news. Can you take the box into a reconditioned? My box cost me 200 and to get it reconditioned was 450, so I obviously passed on that and just did the bottom seal myself.

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Originally Posted by brad56

Hi Bad Co and all other interested parties I Striped down my steering box completely have found several issues bottom seal pitman arm seal area corroded needs a speede sleeve will be a problem to fit as it has to be fitted after the box is re assembled this will make future overhauls very difficult as the shaft has to be removed through roller bearings, so the speede sleeve will have to be removed before strip down which will be made more difficult because of the seals .
(A word of caution when removing pitman arm using hammers either side of arm make sure you only hit the pitman arm & not the body of the box as you can distort the seal area as I did (only minor distortion put the box in the lathe and skimmed the distorted area as it made removing the seal sir clip near impossible)
The worm drive shaft has some major pitting to the bearing area, am finding it hard to find a replacement shaft so looks like I am in the market for another second hand power steering box hope the next box dose not have the same problem as it is starting to get expensive first box cost me $400 it was supposed to be in good condition according to the seller (very hard to check the box when buying over the phone you can only take there word .
The other problem I have had is with the seal kit I rushed into the strip down removing seals as I went I did not check the seals in the kit, the kit dose not supply the 3 Teflon square section seals on the worm drive shaft so check that you have all the necessary seals before removing old seals (very important)as Teflon square section seals of the correct size are hard to come by unless I make them out of a Teflon billet in the lathe, so at present I am at a stand still until I get a replacement box.
Having problems trying to post photos will try again at a later date
Brad

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Sorry to hear that, but $400 is crazy money for a SH PAS Box. I bought a new one for about $450! I understand they have gone up a bit, but new ones with drop arm are still GBP325+shipping

NTC1580NOR | RHD 4 Bolt PAS Box complete with bent drop arm (outright)

For others reading this thread I would stay away from SH PAS boxes, they usually have problems. If you do buy one SH I wouldn't pay more than $200.

Bolted all my hoses on today. PAS is good to go. Flushed the block out, installed new radiator hoses with a engine saver and went to put the recored radiator in and found out they rebuilt it to ****ing big.

On top of that my prop that was holding the bonnet up slipped out and the bonnet pin glanced off the side of my head. 2 hrs at A&E and 2 stitches later, the truck is still on axle stands and I'll be chasing up the radiator people tomorrow!

Can someone please take a measurement and a photo of the radiator so I can get an idea of how tall it is mean to be and how it sits in the engine bay?

Cheers

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Originally Posted by BadCo.

Bolted all my hoses on today. PAS is good to go. Flushed the block out, installed new radiator hoses with a engine saver and went to put the recored radiator in and found out they rebuilt it to ****ing big.

On top of that my prop that was holding the bonnet up slipped out and the bonnet pin glanced off the side of my head. 2 hrs at A&E and 2 stitches later, the truck is still on axle stands and I'll be chasing up the radiator people tomorrow!

Can someone please take a measurement and a photo of the radiator so I can get an idea of how tall it is mean to be and how it sits in the engine bay?

Cheers

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That will be a lesson to remove the bonnet next time...

How is your rad too big? What exactly do you want measured/photographed?

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

That will be a lesson to remove the bonnet next time...

How is your rad too big? What exactly do you want measured/photographed?

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Live and learn aye.

It's just too tall, its a good 15-20mm taller then the top of the grill. The fan almost touches the bottom of the shroud, and the shroud doesn't slot into the bottom lip on the bottom of the radiator. I can't get all three of the bolts threaded in for the radiator mounts, and finally the bonnet won't shut. I just want to be able to take it to the radiator shop, tell them exactly what's wrong and not have them question it.

So I guess just a height measurement will work and maybe a photo level with the top of the grill.

Like this:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1424495350

And yes, the pointy things on the bottom of the radiator are slotted into the rubber grommets :)

That looks about right.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...221_131828.jpg

Hm, how odd.

Thanks for the photo.

Maybe its just the ends of the radiator, see how there is a bow in the top and the sides are higher?

So what exactly is fouling when you try and close the bonnet?
Looks like you need to adjust the mudguard end of your top mount brackets.

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

So what exactly is fouling when you try and close the bonnet?
Looks like you need to adjust the mudguard end of your top mount brackets.

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I would have to check what is fouling the bonnet in the morning.

The holes for the three bolts on the top mount brackets don't line up.

I'll have another look tomorrow, I did have a concussion and was profusely bleeding at the time.

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Originally Posted by BadCo.

I would have to check what is fouling the bonnet in the morning.

The holes for the three bolts on the top mount brackets don't line up.

I'll have another look tomorrow, I did have a concussion and was profusely bleeding at the time.

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Now your head is out of the way it might close properly!