Thread: PAS Install

Ok original box is out with drop arm off.

Now I think ill have to mount the new box so I can undo the drop arm nut with the breaker bar. Surprisingly the nut on the original box wasn't that tight.

After messing with the new box trying to get it in I would recommend anyone doing this to remove the radiator and the brackets and prop your hood with something else and also remove the support bracket (item 12 in the picture in post 19). The box is a bitch to get it in and out on your own!

Once mounted I did get the 34mm nut off, then out came the box again and I had a crack at getting the old arm off before the light started to fade. No luck so far. I'll have another go tomorrow.

My experience is that if its on tight, they are an absolute mongrel to remove. The one on my County took about a week for me to get it off. Penetrant, puller, more penetrant, some heat (didn't have oxy which may have been better than LPG torch), and finally a more substantial puller and a serious whack with a lump hammer while it was loaded up.
I'd even got to the stage where I was convinced it wasn't going to come off serviceable and had ordered a new arm when it finally gave up fighting.

If I've got it right and you're trying to remove the original arm from the D1 box, save yourself a headache and possible damage to the box by grinding a flat on the arm until its nearly through to the spline. That should release it and make it easy to remove

Steve

Originally Posted by steveG

If I've got it right and you're trying to remove the original arm from the D1 box, save yourself a headache and possible damage to the box by grinding a flat on the arm until its nearly through to the spline. That should release it and make it easy to remove

Steve

Hm, I might do as you say and attack it with a grinder. What about if I use a cutting disk to grind a slot almost through the arm then use the cold chisel to split the rest? Not sure how well that would work and don't want to damage the spline.

Originally Posted by BadCo.

Hm, I might do as you say and attack it with a grinder. What about if I use a cutting disk to grind a slot almost through the arm then use the cold chisel to split the rest? ....

That works too. Just remember the shaft is tapered...

I prefer the grind a flat approach. Usually when it gets thin you start to see a colour change so you know you're close. Hard to judge depth with a cutting disc especially the really thin ones and they cut quickly.

Steve

I have made some progress, which I will detail soon. But for now I just want to check my plumbing is correct before I go to the hose shop.

How does my sweet MS Paint picture look?

Here you go,