Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 16 of 16

Thread: Perentie clutch

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    2,902
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by RoboDouche View Post
    I was just throwing it around wasn't serious I'm a sucker for keeping vehicles original anyway.

    I would like a turbo though!

    You guys tried turning the idle up a little to get rid of the low idle shakes?

    Just don't turn the idle up too far or you will find it a pain in the but when it warms up as it will race along a bit quick in first gear. I turned mine up a smidge and still turn the hand throttle up a touch until it reaches running temperature.


    Cheers, Mick
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Godwin Beach Qld
    Posts
    8,688
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Ooh! dear

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Somewhere in FNQ….
    Posts
    77
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Bearman View Post
    If you can smell it, it has to be slipping. Jumping out of gear usually means end float problems on the mainshaft - is it under or off throttle when it does it - my guess is off.
    Gday Brian, I’m located up near where your heart wants to be in FNQ. I’ve got a replacement clutch for my Perentie, I’ve had the old girl for nine years now and it’s starting to smell a little every time I head down to cairns and have to climb/crawl back up on the Tablelands. What’s simplest method, to change clutch in a bush setting, engine out or dismantle seat box and roll gearbox back?
    Cheers in advance for your answer.
    SIIA-Def110-Classic Rangie-Def110-109 S3-Disco S1-Perentie GS (& No5)

  4. #14
    Bearman's Avatar
    Bearman is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Hay Point
    Posts
    4,043
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Hellonwheels View Post
    Gday Brian, I’m located up near where your heart wants to be in FNQ. I’ve got a replacement clutch for my Perentie, I’ve had the old girl for nine years now and it’s starting to smell a little every time I head down to cairns and have to climb/crawl back up on the Tablelands. What’s simplest method, to change clutch in a bush setting, engine out or dismantle seat box and roll gearbox back?
    Cheers in advance for your answer.
    If you are only doing the clutch replacement, engine out is the easiest way especially out bush. Don't forget to check the rear main for leaks as well. What clutch are you putting in? If you are contemplating putting a turbo on or it has one already the best option is to go the turbo motor pressure plate like the 6x6 have in them. The clutch driven plate is the same for both vehicles. Oh and don't forget the clutch throwout bearing. If you have bought a kit and it has all these bits just make sure the clutch bearing unit is the same length as the old one. Some of them are just adding the V8 one to the kit and it won't work on the Isuzu.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Somewhere in FNQ….
    Posts
    77
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Bearman View Post
    If you are only doing the clutch replacement, engine out is the easiest way especially out bush. Don't forget to check the rear main for leaks as well. What clutch are you putting in? If you are contemplating putting a turbo on or it has one already the best option is to go the turbo motor pressure plate like the 6x6 have in them. The clutch driven plate is the same for both vehicles. Oh and don't forget the clutch throwout bearing. If you have bought a kit and it has all these bits just make sure the clutch bearing unit is the same length as the old one. Some of them are just adding the V8 one to the kit and it won't work on the Isuzu.
    Gday mate,
    Thanks for your reply. I’ve got some new mounts and need to flush coolant, so Engine out will be the way…will just grab a chain block first as I’m ‘out bush’. (Hmm…Wonder how much weight that steel roof beam in the shed will carry…&#129315 I’m replacing with the KLR HD clutch, apparently suits 6x6 and turbo engines. Full kit with T/O Brg etc etc. forgot to buy a rear main, might grab one before I start.
    Cheers.
    SIIA-Def110-Classic Rangie-Def110-109 S3-Disco S1-Perentie GS (& No5)

  6. #16
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
    Administrator
    I'm here to help you!
    Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Western Sydney
    Posts
    30,704
    Total Downloaded
    1.63 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by Hellonwheels View Post
    forgot to buy a rear main, might grab one before I start.
    You have a couple of choices for the rear main oil seal:

    This:

    4BD1 Rear Main Oil Seal - KLR Automotive

    And this:

    Rear Main Oil Seal Kit 4BD1 - KLR Automotive

    I have no idea which is better but I'd want the best if the engine has to come out to fit it!
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!