Thread: Re-Proofing the canopy

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forwar...-report-7.html

Joseph Lyddy Dry Seal https://www.josephlyddy.com.au/categ...oduct/dry-seal

You'll need at least 2 litres to do just the top. You should also coat the rope tie loops at the side because they act as a wick to draw water inside.

I did mine by placing the hood on a table and used a small paint roller as an applicator.

I was looking at using Dynaproof, but I can't seem to find anywhere in Brisbane that sells it (via google searches anyway, about to start calling around caravan and awning places and see if anyone has any)

Semi - productive day acquiring things.
Got some paint and etch primer from Protec (though they have to order the brown in for me)
new bonnet seals $28 thank you Clarke Rubber
and found some Dynaproof for $32 for 2L

2 hours driving around city traffic in the beast and I'm beat.
Also made a discovery as to why my back hates the Perentie.
The drivers seat has been moved over so it is no longer in front of the steering wheel or pedals.
it's so far over the seat rails actually cover the screws for the rifle but pan!
Job for tomorrow is to remove it and return to it's proper position.

Today on the radio I heard Shannon Lush talking about canvas.
10 to 1 salt solution to clean
1/4 teaspoon in 1l of water to kill mould spores and add some sunscreen for sun protection.

I have used the salt method but see better results with a bleach solution.

I haven't tried the sunscreen.

I just used COI Aquaproof from BCF as a sealer but it has left a slight milky look.

Previously l have used the Joseph Liddy Dry Seal on a camper wth better results.

Shannon Lush did not recommend a sealer but if it leaks you need something.

i tried dynaproof on my old canopy and it went to crap after shrinking like hell so i got onto the dry seal and have used it for years now.. every 2 yrs in october it gets a new coat...

+1 for Joseph Liddy.

There are 2 types. One is thicker than the other. Get the thick one.

I was lazy and just did the canopy over the cabin. it stays dry with water beading and running off, many, many months after application. Even though that canvas section is very thin, having already been eaten by mildew.

The canvas rear of the front seats, unsealed, absorbs water like a sponge or wet towel.

If I brake hard in the wet, the water in the canvas flows forward, exits the canvas and gives the passenger seat a shower.

Hilarious.

Lowering the FFR cabin blind (plastic) prevents this amusing outcome, but I rarely do this, as it involves effort.

Lowering the FFR cabin blind (plastic) prevents this amusing outcome, but I rarely do this, as it involves effort.

I've bought some Dynaproof, so I'll be giving that a try first.
reading around, it seems you have to make sure the product is warm when applying.
putting the tin in a bucket of hot water for an hour before starting and applying in direct sunlight seems to make sure it goes on right and doesn't shrink/crack or dry with a haze in it.
we shall see.