Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 26

Thread: Fuel leak in perentie 110

  1. #1
    OB1 Kenobi Guest

    Fuel leak in perentie 110

    I have one of the ex military 110's which is now dripping fuel.Took to a LR mechanic and was told leak is between the two 'skins' - new tank $4400 plus labour !!


    Does anyone know if these tanks be repaired/coated inside/replacement tanks at a reasonable cost ? If so who in Melb might do these works ?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    398
    Total Downloaded
    0
    $4400?

    Thats a huge profit, the Perentie main tank looks like a 90/110 tank but as a different bend in it, thus for some reason its very expensive, but nothing like you have been quoted. Drop me a PM we have both L/R hand tanks avaiable.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Brisbane, Queensland
    Posts
    5,778
    Total Downloaded
    0
    There are lots of places for the tank to leak. Rust between the stone guard and tank is only one place. Others include the steel filler tube can crack, where the top and bottom halves spot weld together, the external bend for the steel pick up or return line can crack.

    I had a bad leak which was a cracked pick up tube from memory. However I also had leaks in the other mentioned places.

    I got Barnsey in Birdsville to do a temporary welding fix, cost $150 from memory. I removed & refitted the tank myself.

    After getting home I eventually took it out, put it in the bath & pressurised the tank with compressed air to identify the leaks, washed the inside, welded it some more, filled other areas with liquid metal, and coated the inside with a product called Redcote.

    It's been good for about 3 years now. I think I did a tutorial on here about it.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  4. #4
    OB1 Kenobi Guest
    thanks for that. No good on the mechanical side so will need to find someone local ( Melb). Loving the car....not the leak !

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Hawthorn
    Posts
    215
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I got same issue with my pretense been out onto a product by por15 been told its the ducks nuts by many people is not cheap $160 though that is to do both of my tanks in rfsv as far as fuel tank repair stuff goes it's expensive but cheaper than New tanks

    Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    East-South-East Girt-By-Sea
    Posts
    17,662
    Total Downloaded
    1.20 MB
    There are any number of tank sealer products, not all as expensive as POR. (Although some aviation spec products can be more expensive.)

    Another brand is the Aussie made KBS coatings Auto Fuel Tank Sealer Kit

    [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjhRg1CpMQI"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjhRg1CpMQI[/ame]

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    13,786
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Since it a diesel tank it is fairly safe to repair if you can find someone willing. As long as it is not swiss cheese you can do the repairs using copper sheet and soldering or brazing.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    tank out is about an hours work 3 if it fights

    cleaning is a bit of a pain. POR 15 is a good way to go but you can also sweat seal the tank if the holes are small. when you put the skin back on the bottom of the tank clean all the paint off of the mating faces and coat them both heavily with plastic tool dip while its wet clamp them together and then fill in the side gaps. The most common cause of leaks on the tank is crap getting caught between the skin and the base and either abrading through or rusting through.

    An abrasion can be repaired from the outside between the skins, rust through should be delt with from the inside.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Central Coast NSW
    Posts
    1,103
    Total Downloaded
    0
    $4400

    What a pack of Bar-stewards!

    That's a disgrace

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Brisbane, Queensland
    Posts
    5,778
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by OB1 Kenobi View Post
    thanks for that. No good on the mechanical side so will need to find someone local ( Melb). Loving the car....not the leak !
    It's not complicated to remove and refit. Empty the tank. Disconnect the hoses under seat and the wires to the sender. Disconnect filler tube. Unbolt tank from rear mount. Remove or loosen front mount and unbolt tank from front mount. Drop tank to the ground and remove.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!