Thread: Perentie front diff failure - help!

Drilling and tapping are not really an option due to the distance in. I'll make some measurements tomorrow and try to get a better idea.

yeah it is.

undo the 7 bi hex bolts to remove the swivel housing (replace the gasket if gasket fitted with goop or loctite 515)

use a 30cm 6mm drill in almost any drill or if you dont have a 30cmlong drill bit a standard long 6mm bit (which is about 10-15cm) in the chuck of a normal 6mm drive die grinder will work perfectly.

then using a 1/4 ins extension bar (or female 1/4 to male 1/2 adaptor and a half inch extension bar) use a taper tap in the 1/4 female extension to drive the tao and a shifter or tap handle on the 1/4 male of the extension bar to turn the tap. Push and turn then use a length of 8mm threaded rod, 8mm bolt or in some cases just wrapping some builders string onto the top 3 turns of the tap and pulling with the tap in place will pull it out.

If you're really really lucky (and its happened to me exactly once ) it may even come out on the end of the drill bit when you pull the drill out.

Drill bit extensions are easy to make. Just get a suitable length of rod, say 3/8", drill a hole with the drill bit in one end. Then grind 3 equal flats onto the drill's shank, insert the shank into the rod and hammer or punch the rod down into the flats. About 20 minutes work and it'll make an excellent addition to your tool box.



Tap extenders can be made in the same way if you don't have any 1/4" drive extensions.

I can see you guys have done tjis before...

I have to work for the next 8 days, so this might get put on hold for a bit - as much as I need it running

you can also get some drills with a hex head drive on them just fit a suitable size socket to a 1/4 inch extension bar and grab that in a normal (13mm) drill chuck.

Just a tip - I learnt this the hard way tonight - wear gloves with one shot grease. It totally passed me by that it's essentially molly grease.

Turns out I'm a bit sensetive to it, and I used porus gloves, and had it on my arms in large amounts all day.

Now feeling extremely ordinary.

Ok so bit of an update:

Procured axles - from ebay from an individual who was fitting Hi-tough axles - something I'll do in the future.

Got a full set, including drive flanges, cir-clips and caps - I have spares now.

Axle has busted about 3mm into the inner splines, and the broken part is wedged into the spider gear, no man or magnet is going to get it out the easy way.

10 spline inner, 23 outer FYI.

Stopped at my local land rover dealer and ordered new gaskets and seals, along with the oil seal washer - that I discovered was bent.

The part numbers in the service manual were still good amazingly.

I have elected to let my mechanic do this job, in part due to my unpleasant experience with one-shot grease, and the risk involved in performing this repair without the correct equipment.

I'm going to put the hub back on, minus axle and cv, and flat-bed it a couple of km across town to the mechanic.

He has been with me since the purchase and is experienced with rovers.
Work is near- 7 days a week for me, so I'll make use of the extra money to pay him instead.

So $1300 later - my mechanic did the tedious work for me this time.

There was a good reason why the axle was not forthcoming with a magnet...

Looks like I'll be after some hi-tough axles in the near future.

16832273_10156955965558647_7451364036947880517_n.jpg