Reply With QuoteNo one ?
Wizard
Help
I have a 12v / 5 amp / 60 watt LCD TV/DVD that I am trying to run in the car.
Having all sorts of probs with the power supply.
After connecting , have blown the fuses on the 2 rear permanent connect power supplies usually used for the fridge and /or lighting but have not yet checked the fuse sizes fitted.
Bought a 12 V 5A power supply from Jaycar yesterday and tried it last night from the dash cig lighter.
Note that I did fit a slow acting 5 A fuse in lieu of the fast acting 5 amp one because the fast acting one blew immediately the TV was turned on.
With tge 5 amp slow act fuse fitted , the system ran great for about 5 mins on DVD and then pzzzzt , out went the 5 amp slow act fuse.
When I checked , the centre pin and the body of the fitting was hot and the glass body fuse had melted the internal plastics
I may not have had the fitting pushed all the way home in the cig lighter but don't think that would make any difference as it wouldn't have worked if it didn't sense + and - , would it?
As the TV is rated at 5 amp should I be buying a 10 amp power supply or fitting a 10 amp fuse to the 5 amp supply body , as the 5 amp one may be running at full capacity and getting hot?
I know in mech electrical my subbie allows 10% over the running current for overloads etc.
Wizard
No one ?
A Keeper of the TGO
Grab a multi-meter and check the draw.
Sounds like it's pulling more than 5 Amps.
Wonder if the rate is for when it's running? Might need more to start.
YarnMaster
SubscriberI bet there's an inrush current of greater than 5A on startup.
If it's rated at 5A in, I'd use a 10A power supply .... and maybe a 7.5A fast blow fuse ... but setup and check inrush (from a cold turn-on) and running current first to be sure. It takes extra juice to charge up all the capacitors in the circuits at a cold turn on. Once those cap's are charged, they will hold their charge for a period of time, so the inrush is way less if you turn off, then on again in say 15min .... 12hrs later, everythings definitley completley discharged.
Kev..
Kev..
Going ... going ... almost gone ... GONE !! ... 2004 D2a Td5 Auto "Classic Country" Vienna Green
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RoverLord
have a look at the size of the point of contact, it may pay to cut the cig lighter socket + plug away and fit a merit/mini anderson/engle power or some other large contact connector.
Dave
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If it is a 12V TV, why would you need a 12V power supply if it is already running off a 12V battery?
What am I missing here?
If it is melting 5A fuses it is drawing more than 5A.
Wizard
Thanks Guys
Miky , it was more to do with what type of 12 v connection.
As in wire thickness, cig adaptor fuses etc.
This is because a thin wire one wouldn't fire it up and the other one has kept blowing 5 amp fuses fast and slow acting.
Not certain about the inrush current as the slow acting one blew 5 mins after start up?
ChatterBox
I was thinking the same thing.Originally Posted by miky
I reckon you need to run wires directly to the battery, just like is recommended for a fridge, with a 10 amp fuse at the battery and 6mm2 wire to the TV. I'm presuming you already have dual batteries and fridge wiring like this, so that it should be OK. If you want to run both your fridge and TV off the same wiring, then 6 mm2 is the absolute minimum wire size and maybe a 30 amp fuse or circuit breaker at the battery, and 10 amp fuses to each device, from a distribution point in the back.
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