Unplug the power from the unit, and check for voltage there.
That will tell you if it is the feed in, or inside the unit.
I think you know the rest of the procedure from here...![]()
Howdy folks.
A while ago I moved my UHF up to the roof, as I was tired of knocking it when I engaged low range.
I had to lengthen the power cable but that was pretty easy, it's been working just fine until last night.
I noticed it wasn't on, so I checked to see it was in the on position and it was.
Pulled the trim slightly down, unplugged everything, checked for dodgy connections, checked the fuse, put it back together and it worked fine.
Enter this morning, hop in and once again it's not working.
Do the same routine, no joy, pull the trim entirely out, still not working.
Replace a dodgy crimp connection and pull power from the original point (bypassing my lengthening job on the power connection) and still no joy.
I've had a sniff of both the remote face and the main unit, no 'burnt electrical' type smell, and I'm starting to get annoyed with my $500 paperweight from GME![]()
All the fuses are okay, looks like the auto sparky has done some weird splicing into various wires,etc under the steering column so NFI what's going on there.
All the fuses are intact, so I'm assuming it's unlikely I've blown the unit up.
Any ideas where to go from here?
I'm tempted to completely re-wire it up in the roof to save having a power cable behind the A pillar trim that's a PITA to get to.
Cheers
Muppet
Unplug the power from the unit, and check for voltage there.
That will tell you if it is the feed in, or inside the unit.
I think you know the rest of the procedure from here...![]()
Glass fuses can 'unsolder' or break at one end, where you can't see...
Not uncommon.
Another argument for blade-type fuses.
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