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What did you do, just wire in some 3.5mm sockets?Quote:
Originally Posted by loanrangie
I don't think that's something that can be "turned on", I don't recall seeing it as an option in the CCF anyhow. Usually things like that are in the actual software of the instrument cluster. Say for example it's different hardware & software in the instrument cluster of a 2010-2011 D4, vs. a 2012-onward, probably different again from 2014-onward.Quote:
Originally Posted by veebs
Yes, found some info on disco3 forum and a member here who did it to his D3. Just hooking into the factory wiring that is already there minus the socket.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cambo@oldjaguar
Hi All,
First the bad news, the speakers i ordered from Ebay USA have been stuck in customs. Originally customs asked for more paperwork, but recently i found out that used car parts are not allowed to be imported into my country. Im down to a miracle (maybe they dont notice that the speakers are car parts?). Most likely they will be denied entry and sent back to USA, which at least means i will not be installing the midbass speakers anytime soon, perhaps if lucky sometime in the next 6 months...
So after this heartbreak I did decide to go ahead and install the 80mm midrange speakers i ordered (brand new). I have only installed one of the two so far... here are some pics:
Attachment 131336
The original speaker is on the left, it is taller/deeper. I was not expecting this. Default speaker weight 193g, new speaker 161g (Should speakers be judged by weight? Probably not considering other factors that could influence weight). The default speaker does come in a bigger metal enclosure, so i think that might be the cause of a higher weight. At this point i was wondering if the the new part was an upgrade or a downgrade...
Attachment 131332
It is not a 100% exact fit, the default speaker enclosure/structure has concave edges where the screws are placed, and the door card has some plastic parts which fit snug into those concave openings. The new speaker does fit, but you do end up bending the plastic when you tighten the screws. So i guess part of the speaker edges are not pressed snug against the door card? Im guerssing its not that big of a deal...
Attachment 131333
Is the default speaker better than the "upgraded" part or not? I tried o compare by price but couldnt, I searched the part number of the default speaker but couldnt find de LR part number.
Sound tests: I only got one speaker replaced so far, i think the new upgraded part sounds better, though this is obviously completely subjective. I think the new speaker has a broader range while the original sounds flat? Im no sound expert, but i think the original speaker sort of plays all frequencies it receives in a narrower range? Say the input is frequencies between 200hz and 10khz, maybe the ouput is "compressed" into 600hz and 8khz? So i do think the new speaker sound is broader/better, so far i would say potential improvement is somewhere between 10-30%... to be confirmed.
I will be installing the second one later today or tomorrow and will update my sound test results... In the end after a couple of days of real world driving and listening to music i should have a final verdict.... cheers!
Sorry to hear the bad news mvelasco. Hope they manage to slip your one through..
Regarding the new speakers, it does look weird that the supposedly better version is smaller and lighter.
Good luck on the other half of the install and take lots of pictures please. Might help me for future reference :)
That's a bummer about the customs problems...
Regarding your concern about the speakers;
The weight is not something to consider on it's own, the Meridian Signature speakers have a plastic frame which is much lighter than the metal one... also the weight of the magnet is not the whole story, cheap magnet can be twice as heavy, but only half as strong.
The standard speakers are made in China, have a paper & rubber cone, cost about 20 cents to make and retail for $40
The Meridian Signature speakers are made in Slovakia, have a kevlar weave cone, and retail for $60, they cost about $5 to make, not 20 cents like the Chinese ones.
There is a reason they are used in the Meridian Signature system in the Range Rovers.
Not a downgrade by any means...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cambo@oldjaguar
Thanks for the info Cambo. I do notice an improvement, but right now the bass is so muddy that it just dulls everything. Once i get the new bass speakers and the dynamat things should come to life. Still it is definitely reasurring to know more details about the upgraded mid-level speakers.
Ive been researching some things and came across some interesting info. I noticed in the Infotainment General PDF from Topix, under section Overview, it says:
InControl Touch 6 speaker audio system with integrated 4 channel audio amplifier
InControl Touch 10 speaker 190W audio system with external 8 channel Audio Amplifier Module (AAM)
InControl Touch 11 speaker 250W audio system with external 8 channel AAM and sub-woofer.
Notice the 10 speaker setup mentions "... with external 8 channel Audio Amplifier Module (AAM)", it mentions 8 channels, same number of channels as the 11 speaker 250w system. Now on the wiring schematic, only six channels are shown as wired to the speakers (using crossovers to feed the full 10 speakers):
Attachment 131566
So what happened to the two left over channels? Also, looking at the wiring schematic for the 11 speaker system, the wiring shows 10 channels, one for each of the 10 speakers (there should be only 8 channels tho), no crossovers, an entire channel for a tweeter? and no channels for the sub? (unless im making a mistake, i think this is mistake in the schematic). Heres the pic:
Attachment 131565
Im thinking the 2 unused channels on the 10 speaker systems amp would typically be used to wire the sub. And the schematic for the 11 speaker system might be wrong? I have a hypothesis and it has wishful thinking written all over it... but could it be the same amplifier on both systems? Im thinking it wouldnt make sense for the dealer to have to rewire all the speakers just for a Sub upgrade would it?
In any case, i've also noticed something that might have me pumped for a possible stage 2 upgrade down the road. Here is a picture of the schematics for "InControl Touch - 10-Speaker system" from the Wiring section on Topix.
Attachment 131567
Im looking at this, and im thinking that it might be possible to disconnect the stock amp completely, and install an aftermarket amp with speaker level inputs feeding off the AHU directly? The only thing that makes me unsure is the CAN+ and CAN- connections, which i have no idea if its just another sound input or if it does some other communication/functionality.
Im sort of biased towards having only one amp after the AHU to avoid battery troubles. Do you think this is possible? Also, im thinking if the AMP sits after the AHU and in case the CAN + and CAN - is just another sound input, would a CCF modification really be necessary for changes at that point in the chain?
Hi All,
Upgrades have gone in the last week or so. Some pics of the speakers, as you can see, very similar to cambos pics:
Attachment 132402Attachment 132403
I had the dynamat done, not exactly dynamat, i think this generic dynamat is not as thick but it still gets the job done. I didnt realize these doors have 3 layers where the dynamat needs to be applied, inside behind the speakers, on the layer at the speaker level, and on the rear side of the door card (forgot to take a pic of this). So yeah, plenty of the material is needed.
Attachment 132400Attachment 132401
I drove around with just the sound proofing for a couple of days, but without the new bass speakers. I must say it makes quite a diifference, all the resonance and muddyness is gone. It really makes you think how they can sell a car without addressing this issue. Dont know if this is just a discovery sport thing, but i cant help but wonder if these issues dont plague other LR vehicles.
After installing the new bass speakers everything becomes a lot clearer. The sound is very crisp. the bass goes a bit lower, everything sounds cleaner, when you turn up the volume there is no distortion. All in all a great upgrade. Very happy with results. Its hard to put a number to theses things as there are many variables, i would give it a 100+% improvement, even my wife noticed a huge difference, and shes the type of person that doesnt think theres much difference between SD and HD tv.
Edit: As cambo mentioned, these are a direct/exact fit, no mods necessary.
If your planning on upgrading, i would suggest the first step is the dynamat. Im thinking without dynamat, putting in the jaguar speakers might actually make things worse with all the resonance and vibration.
Next steps:
- I had a car with a sub before and i know the difference it makes, i will be looking into this in the mid-term future. This may require a sub upgrade/replacement, some retrofitting or aftermarket parts, but ill be sure to let you know what happens in the end (Stock sub part number is LR061037, a new one goes for around USD 230, cant find the other number which helps find a used one on ebay. Also there is an amplifier: Audison Prima AP8.9 amp that seems like it would make a very sweet upgrade with no rewiring, tho it is expensive and i still have to analyze what i mentioned in my previous post)
- The only stock speakers still in the car are the tweeters, which are the same as used in other jaguar/LR vehicles, not sure if i will upgrade these, meridian signature LR vehicles have titanium tweeters, but no idea if worth it, aftermarket silk tweeters also sound interesting...
I went looking for the subwoofer location to see if anything is prewired and see spacing to get an idea of possible retrofits and such... some pics:
Attachment 132565
Attachment 132566
Attachment 132564
I circled in red the area where the sub is meant to be mounted, not a lot of space. I was hoping for the sub connections to be prewired, im not sure at this point, the only conector visible is the one on the third picture, it is a bit below the sub, i couldnt get a good picture of it, it does sorta look like the mid range speaker connector, but it feels a bit wimpy to be the sub feed? theres only two wires running to it... i have no idea at this point, it might actually be a connector for something else... im thinking of connecting a multimeter to see if its live, maybe ill try to plug in one of the removed mid bass speakers and see what happens [wink11]
Getting back to your question about the amps, in the EPC there is one "MidLine" amplifier type listed in one section, and one in another.
Part numbers are;
LR061032, FK72-19C164-ZD, to VIN FH513001
LR071201, FK72-19C164-ZE, from VIN FH513002 to FH539088
LR076681, FK72-19C164-ZF, from VIN FH539089 to HH999999
LR107812, HK72-19C164-ZD, from VIN JH000001 (this appears to be a different version?)
And then there is another amp listed as being for "Head Unit Level C, Midline Sound system) which is supposed to be the same as the base system.
Part number for that is LR083823, FK72-19C164-TA, VIN range HH000001 to HH999999
So the question is, which amp was installed in yours from the factory? It would appear to me that there are two versions, I'm guessing one with sub, one without...
I was able to get a picture of my amp:Quote:
Originally Posted by Cambo@oldjaguar
Attachment 132720
As you can see, the middle connector has 8 pairs of connectors, but only 6 are used. On the right end and left end there would appear to be unused channels, however i didnt have the tools or time to try and see if something is comming out of those channels. I removed the connector and the amp indeed has pins for those holes. However, i am sure now that the amp i have isnt the one with the official subwoofer connectors, i know this because of these pictures:
Attachment 132722Attachment 132723
These are pictures from another forum, where an aftermarket sub install was made. According to wire colors from diagrams on Topix, im 99% sure that the connector i circled in red is the subwoofer feed, which is inexistent in my amp. My amp also seems to be smaller and have less connectors. Now whether those two free channels on my amp can be used or not, will remain a mystery for now, but im thinking maybe they are disabled or something...
I also searched for the part numbers of the different stock amps to see if a retrofit could be made:
LR076681: USD 890
LR107812: USD 721
LR083823: USD 848
Im not sure which is which, but IMO these prices are extremely expensive for what you get, also, i doubt i will be seeing many of these on ebay any time soon. This almost entirely rules out an amp retrofit for me, for that kind of money you can get some pretty great stuff. If i end up upgrading further, I will most likely be getting an aftermarket amp with DSP such as the audison prima 8.9bit or something along those lines.
On to the sub.
OEM sub for discovery sport:
LR061037: USD 249
Images:
Attachment 132741Attachment 132742
The first image is a drawing for the part, the second is a jaguar xf 2015 sub, i think this is probably close to what the disco sport sub looks like in real life, not very inspiring for USD 249. Also, it would seem to be oval shaped, which would make and upgrade reusing the carcass a lot more difficult if not impossible. Whats even more intriguing is the 2017 Range Rover sport sub prices:
Attachment 132752
Both these subs, which one would assume are of greater quality, are significantly cheaper than the disco sport sub, which honestly makes no sense... This makes things even harder. I would like the sub to go in the oem location and have an oem fit, but it looks like it would have to be a custom job. It would be interesting to get one of the range rover sport subs as it would seem like it might fit in the disco sport. I guess ill have to visit the dealership and see what it sounds like...
