Thread: Help please! Lights on the blink

I don't know the system, but given your lights work okay with the spotties switched off, I would think a relay, if there is one, is not holding in when the lights are pulling to much current. This would be due to voltage drop at the relay coil, suggesting either your electrics are not up to scratch, or a faulty relay, or bad connection.

The spotties should have their own circuit breaker/fuse so if they overload the stock headlamps stay on. It shouldn't take much effort to find the power feed to the spotties relay and breaker/fuse connect it directly to the battery feed.

Cheers Biggin. Yes, there's two new relays. One for the headlights and one for the spotlights. The wiring for both is pretty much all new and it's either at or above spec. I'll check all the connections, but how do I check the relay?

Cheers bee utey. Tim's wiring diagram only showed one breaker, and although the sparky said he thought it was odd he fitted only the one anyway. He put that in the battery box, but it's only run with one cable so I'm guessing there's something splitting the supply downstream. I guess I could connect it directly or maybe find a higher rated breaker and try my luck, but I'd be a little worried about what might then happen.

Disconnect one driving light and try again. If the fault is still there then disconnect the other one and reconnect the first one. If the fault is still there then disconnect both lights and try again. If the fault is still there then the lights arent faulty. Look for a trapped power wire or wire that has rubbed thru somewhere on the harness. Obviously if u disconnect one of the lights and the fault is gone then that light or the wiring to it is faulty.
Hope this helps u.

Cheers Rod

Ps check the relay connections as that is a common fault, wires connected to wrong terminals

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Hi folks, just had a long rewiring session over the phone, and hopefully James will be OK till he gets home.

The retard of an autolec ran his own cabling instead of what was supplied.

He ran a single 8B&S cable from the battery box to the relays. The kit is specifically supplied with 2 x 8B&S cabling for this job, and the instructions clearly show this in the diagrams.

I specifically supply two 8B&S cables ( totalling 16mm2 ) to reduce the voltage drop, and I supply two 8B&S cables instead of one 16mm2 cable because standard YELLOW crimp connectors will fit 8B&S cable.

You can then use any standard terminal crimping tool, where as if I supplied 16mm2 cable, you would need a special tool to fix the large terminals to the cable.

The idiot of an autolec also wired up the relays incorrectly and this was after I gave the autoelec instructions over the phone, while he was doing the installation.

Is it any wonder I prefer people do their own work rather than refer them to auto electricians.

G'day guys.

Thank you all for the replies and the helpful advice. Particular thanks, of course, to Tim.

Sadly I wasn't able to get the driving lights working properly, but Tim's generosity and patience in working through the problem with me was very greatly appreciated.

I agree that doing your own work is best. In this case I paid a significant sum to a supposed professional as I had no time to do the work myself before the trip. As a result I've done that dough and inevitably quite a bit more in due course. I was also left with no driving lights and, at times, no lights at all, and now I'm home I need to do all the work over again. When my 7mth old permits...

You live and learn. At least I didn't hit anything during the run across.

Cheers all.

James