Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12

Thread: UHF aerial cable joiners

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Tamworth NSW
    Posts
    4,295
    Total Downloaded
    0

    UHF aerial cable joiners

    Any advice on aerial cable joiners?
    As with the majority of the wiring on my vehicle which I've been undoing (you can read about it >>here<< ), the aerial cable was not spared the installer's penchant of 'bundle it up and stuff it somewhere where the owner won't find it'.


    Do such joiners reduce transmission or signal quality?
    Currently the aerial cable on mine runs from the aerial, thru the grille, around the firewall (via a stonkin' big bundle of mess), thru firewall and into the radio.
    Having the ability to completely remove the front grill of the defender would be good, but not sure if I put a joiner in somewhere, or join and reattach at the radio end or aerial end.
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Godwin Beach 4511
    Posts
    20,688
    Total Downloaded
    32.38 MB
    you do lose something at every joint

    whether that impacts your particular usage is another matter

    is there a screw fitting at the antenna end as well as at the radio end, or is it soldered?
    2007 Discovery 3 SE7 TDV6 2.7
    2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7 TDCi

    "Make the lie big, make it simple, keep saying it, and eventually they will believe it." -- a warning from Adolf Hitler
    "If you don't have a sense of humour, you probably don't have any sense at all!" -- a wise observation by someone else
    'If everyone colludes in believing that war is the norm, nobody will recognize the imperative of peace." -- Anne Deveson
    “What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others.” - Pericles
    "We can ignore reality, but we cannot ignore the consequences of ignoring reality.” – Ayn Rand
    "The happiness of your life depends upon the quality of your thoughts." Marcus Aurelius

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Orange, NSW
    Posts
    7,965
    Total Downloaded
    0
    You need a lossless connector. I have a link for them somewhere
    The Phantom - Oslo Blue 2001 Td5 SE.
    Half dead but will live again!

    Nina - Chawton White 2003 Td5 S
    Slowly being improved

    Quote Originally Posted by Judo View Post
    You worry me sometimes Muppet!!


  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Tamworth NSW
    Posts
    4,295
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Haven't actually got that far to know what's on the aerial end. It's a GME aerial, unsure of db or whatever measure they use for these things.
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Wantabadgery, N.S.W.
    Posts
    2,742
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Can't you unsweat the cable from the connector at the back of the radio and pull it out? (unscrew the connector first.) Tape a pull cord onto it if you want to pull it back through later. I'm no expert, but I think a join will bugger up the shielding which is vital to good function of the cable, and therefore the radio.
    Don.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Tamworth NSW
    Posts
    4,295
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Being a shielded cable was my biggest concern. If the quality would suffer incredibly, then I'd cut the cable back down to the right length once it's routed in a way which allows me to remove the grille more easily
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Godwin Beach 4511
    Posts
    20,688
    Total Downloaded
    32.38 MB
    2007 Discovery 3 SE7 TDV6 2.7
    2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7 TDCi

    "Make the lie big, make it simple, keep saying it, and eventually they will believe it." -- a warning from Adolf Hitler
    "If you don't have a sense of humour, you probably don't have any sense at all!" -- a wise observation by someone else
    'If everyone colludes in believing that war is the norm, nobody will recognize the imperative of peace." -- Anne Deveson
    “What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others.” - Pericles
    "We can ignore reality, but we cannot ignore the consequences of ignoring reality.” – Ayn Rand
    "The happiness of your life depends upon the quality of your thoughts." Marcus Aurelius

  8. #8
    Tombie Guest
    If you have a heap of coax then trimming it down will reduce loss of about 0.4db per meter.

    Changing to RG316 will improve performance over RG58U.

    And if you need to fit a joiner - use an N type connector - constant impedance, therefore much more stable

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Wantabadgery, N.S.W.
    Posts
    2,742
    Total Downloaded
    0
    This may help

    Don.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,517
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Toxic_Avenger View Post
    ..... the aerial cable was not spared the installer's penchant of 'bundle it up and stuff it somewhere where the owner won't find it'.
    ......
    Having the ability to completely remove the front grill of the defender would be good, but not sure if I put a joiner in somewhere, or join and reattach at the radio end or aerial end.
    I wouldn't use a joiner anywhere between the aerial and the radio. It's best practise to use a connector only at those two ends.
    But going from that description above about 'stuffing it somewhere', I'd be inclined to turf the coax and start again(ie. could be damaged already!).
    At less that $2/meter, you'd be mad not too. At about $2 each for the two N-type connectors, it's not an overly expensive exercise.
    Coax doesn't like sharp bends, so you'd get yourself 3-ish meters of new coax and keep the run as short and straight as possible. Of course dependent on where the radio box is relative to the aerial.
    Stay away from potential interference noises such as high end power cables (battery leads!).
    Always solder the inner(conductor) core. I use heatshrink on the outer sheath of the cable over external connectors too.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!