Just a GOOD set of spring crompressors, and a rattle gun
G'Day All,
I've got a long weekend of 4wd booked but am still waiting on my springs to arrive. I currently some Pro Comp 2" extended length shocks ready to go so just waiting on the springs.
Is there any other bits I really need to be able to complete this job in the few hours of light I've got after work in the next 2days? (eg do I really need extended brake lines or xmember spcaers?)
What the best tried and proven method of going about this for those who have done it a few times before?
Thanks All.
Rez
Just a GOOD set of spring crompressors, and a rattle gun
if you have extended length shocks then yes you need extended brake lines.
all you will need to do the job is spanners/sockets, a jack and decent axel stands, and a set of spring compressors.
start on the rear (easier) to learn what to do, and you should be right
Steve
A 2" lift is pretty straight forward. You don't need extended brake lines and shouldn't need caster correction (see how it drives). As a precaution you could move the brake hose mounts down a bit. If you are tight for time do the rears one night and fronts the next. The fronts are a bit more work as you need to remove the shocker housing. A spring compressor would be a big help as it can be difficult to to get enough flex to get the springs in and out.
Note: Landrover springs are handed so make sure you put them in the right sides.
Cheers, David.
My Land Rover has made me a better Mechanic........
D2 TD5 Manual, CDL, Detroit Rear, Truetac Front, 2" OME lift, 32" MT Tyres, ARB Bull Bar, Winch, TJM Roof Rack, Driving Lights, Dual Batteries, ARB Side Steps, Rear Draws, Uhf.
when i did mine, i didnt use spring compressors, i didnt need to on the rear, and on the front i removed the 4 bolts holding the shock tower in and undid the bottom shock nut and removed the shock towers through the engine bay (do this before you jack the car up)
then when you jack up the chassis, there will be enough flex in the front suspension to remove the spring, a benefit of this method is it is much easier to hold the front shocks still in order to remove the top nuts (put the towers in a vice)
No compressors needed as per above 2 comments, rears will almost fall out but fronts may need to be levered in, i found it easier to unbolt the lower spring saddles and slide them back in after the springs were sat in place. with longer shocks you most likely will require longer brake hoses but on the front you can unbolt the hose brackets and make some extenders to get around that, longer shocks will allow the springs to get full extension whereas stock shocks will limit the spring travel David mentioned he didnt need them or i for that matter.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Thanks to all. Sounds pretty straight forward. I'm used to working on Escorts so I know them like the back of my hand but new to working on the big Discos.
Will post up another thread re Extended length brake lines. If its touch and go I'll most likely order a set but want ADR approved.
Cheers,
Rez.
Rez
+2" shocks dont require extended brake lines...
Job should take around 60 minutes... But do some pre-work..
Go around each night spraying the threads on the bolts with CRC, Lanotec or similar... Will make them easier to remove when u come to do the job.
Front - Undo the top bolt on the shock, then the lower, drop the axle and pull the spring out. Now drop the shock out and then reverse to refit...
No need to pull the shock tower.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
i agree with this method also
i have 2" extended rear shocks and the increased down travel placed too much strain on my flexible brake line, it was almost at right angles to the fittings top and bottom, i got a 4" longer brake line made up and installed it, now no more problems
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