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21st April 2010, 03:05 PM
#1
buying 300tdi disco...
G'day everyone
I've been doing some research on disco's for the last few years and am now in the process of finding one to buy. I'm after a 300tdi, manual, 97-98 model and i have afew questions for you all.
firstly, every one i have looked at seems to have done a rear main and has a slow leak, even one with only 120,000k's. Is it worth repairing it, or wait till the clutch needs replacing and do it then?
Secondly I've "heard" that the diff's are fairly weak, im guessing that this is due to people giving them hell with big tyres, big wheelspin and big revs? or can diff's let go fairly easily?
Also the rumor mill churns out afew about how expensive parts are, i have looked at parts on ebay and things like powersteering pumps and such seem to be similarly priced to toyota / nissan. Am i going to be spending much more on parts for a landy than i would on a toyota / nissan?
Do people ever fit manual locking front hubs to be able to use low range without 4wd? I'm worried about using low range with lots of traction at the wheels for extended periods, in my mates patrol we often use low range with the hubs free when its steep but solid.
my last question (for now) is about the cooling system. being a pommy car im worried they wont have a very effective cooling system for our climate. How do they cope with long uphill drags in low range on a hot day (assuming cooling system is in good condition)? Do they need thermo's etc?
Any help with those questions would be great, and thanks allready for all the info people have posted previously, this forum has been extremely helpful.
Cheers
Al
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21st April 2010, 04:09 PM
#2
from what i have heard parts for LRs are no dearer but as with anything it can pay to shop around
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21st April 2010, 04:38 PM
#3
My experience with a 300TD1 '97 Disco is:
+ Pretty much bullet proof in both engine and transmission
+ Only ever had std tyres and never any problems with Diffs (and it gets flogged)
+ Forget free-wheeling hubs. Defeats the purpose of full time 4WD & centre diff sorts out any wind up even in low range
+ Parts are pretty good - no worse than anything else
+ Radiator is fine for Oz conditions. We have towed 2.5 tonnes in summer and no issues at all. However, keep the cooling system in good condition as they will fry a head if overheated (head gasket at the very least).
We bought it new, and will probably never sell it.
HTH
David
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21st April 2010, 04:56 PM
#4
Cheers for that David, good to hear some opions from people who actually own them.
Had any serious dramas in your 13 years?!
The only real expense I'm worried about would be if I ever needed to replace / rebuild an injector pump or turbo, but i havn't read much about them giving trouble.
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21st April 2010, 06:26 PM
#5
Things that have gone wrong since new are:
+ Head gasket blown when I ignored a leaking welch plug and it got too hot. I got 'swishing' noises from under the dash, which I now know means the coolant level is getting low. Cost to fix was around $1000 from memory.
+ Both front window winders gave up the ghost within a fortnight of each other. Cheap fix.
+ Hose rubbed through on the high pressure aircon line and all the fluid escaped. Was $300 or $400 to fix, so not serious.
It has had a hard life (we live on a farm) and lives outside, so there is rust starting under the alpine windows. This is pretty common.
That's about it. The overheating issue was definitely the worst issue.
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21st April 2010, 06:50 PM
#6
I am with spud boy and have similar car.
You have to keep in mind that the car is 13-14 years old.
Our brand new SS ute just done a rear main seal at 6000km's.
New injectors for a similar toyota are $700 each, for a tdi you can get a set for $500.
Its a good cheap car that is very capable but keep some $$$ in reserve for any issues, maintenance is the key though.
Cooling system as mentioned is to be in top shape.
Turbos cost in any car and so do injection pumps.
Weigh up the pros and cons, take some for a drive and for say $6-10K you will have a great car. Spend $2k per annum on repairs and improvements and I see no reason why this could not be the last car you ever buy.
Drive plenty and get the one that feels the best.
Than put it on gas and you be laughing.
Oh and where are you? SA?
Welcome to swing by and take mine for a spin as a guide.
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22nd April 2010, 06:22 PM
#7
that sounds like a damn good run in 13 years David, i recon i spent more than that on a falcon in 12 months! haha
set of injectors for $500! couldnt make them for that much. Sounds like somthing that it might pay to do straight up when i get one.
thanks for the offer of a drive but im from vic.
ill just keep doin my 5000k servicing and it sounds like i should be pretty right. I've decided im not too worried about the rear main because my old one tonner has been dropping 1L a week into the bellhousing for the last 12 months and the clutch still hasn't packed it in 
thanks for all your help guys
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22nd April 2010, 08:00 PM
#8
You'll be right if you take your time.
get it checked over by a LandRover specialist, if the owner will let you ( Fred Smith in the Bayswater area would be my reccommendation )
Make sure you fit a a low coolant level alarm - they don't like loss of coolant. Get the timing belt changed every 60,000k
Otherwise pretty bulletproof.
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23rd April 2010, 07:12 PM
#9
Hi there Johnsa- welcome to the "bunch".
Don't know about the "Pommy cooling system" comment though - remember the car is designed to be used in worldwide markets - including the Middle East where it gets a fair bit hotter than Victoria ever would. I'm pretty sure the rad is the same all over? The aircon pumps cold air like there is no tomorrow and you can make toast on the dash in Winter!
Haven't had trouble with mine apart from an Auto box overheat - but that was due to the temp sender letting me down on Fraser Island.
Cheers
Last edited by matti4556; 23rd April 2010 at 07:15 PM.
Reason: kant spel propa
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24th April 2010, 02:02 PM
#10
5000km service is a wast of oil.
Had my 200tdi 13 years service at 10000km without a problem.
They are direct injection, not indirect like jap s**t.
You can use low range anytime without worry just donot lock the center diff
on hard surfice.
Andrew
'93 200tdi disco
'65 88" s2a
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