Major service overhaul

Klappers, not sure which UK supplier you've priced that lot up at, but I've just had a go and it came to 50GBP cheaper! One thing though, you may be hit for a bit more than 100GBP for shipping when you've got a radiator that probably weighs 10-11kg by itself. It really depends on the supplier, the courier they use and the breakpoints they use for shipping cost by weight.

I was sad enough to sit playing around for about 2 weeks between 4 different suppliers working out which was the most cost efficient way of shipping 90kg of parts

Klappers.
You wont be able to replace the main bearing shells with the engine insitu. If you are pulling the donk to do the work, I would also consider replacing the oil pressure relief, maybe new oil pump, rear main and T-seal...

Anyways.

Steve

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Originally Posted by roverrescue

Klappers.
You wont be able to replace the main bearing shells with the engine insitu. If you are pulling the donk to do the work, I would also consider replacing the oil pressure relief, maybe new oil pump, rear main and T-seal...

Anyways.

Steve

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Oil pressure relief valve spring (and plunger if needed) is easy access once the sump is dropped, and i'd do it anyway at that milage and if doing big ends (which i would also recommend and see you are doing)

Oh, and with the timing belt kit, get a Bearmach one or one that uses a one piece crank pulley, the genuine Land Rover ones use spot welded 'ears' on the pulley and they have a reputation of breaking and taking out the belt, the Bearmach ones are nicely made out of one piece. ;)

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Originally Posted by rick130

Oil pressure relief valve spring (and plunger if needed) is easy access once the sump is dropped, and i'd do it anyway at that milage and if doing big ends (which i would also recommend and see you are doing)

Oh, and with the timing belt kit, get a Bearmach one or one that uses a one piece crank pulley, the genuine Land Rover ones use spot welded 'ears' on the pulley and they have a reputation of breaking and taking out the belt, the Bearmach ones are nicely made out of one piece. ;)

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Shouldnt I already have the updated crank pulley ? 97 Tdi?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by roverrescue

Klappers.
You wont be able to replace the main bearing shells with the engine insitu. If you are pulling the donk to do the work, I would also consider replacing the oil pressure relief, maybe new oil pump, rear main and T-seal...

Anyways.

Steve

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Why not?? Should you be able to push out the old with the new and rotate the crank?

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Originally Posted by sheerluck

Klappers, not sure which UK supplier you've priced that lot up at, but I've just had a go and it came to 50GBP cheaper! One thing though, you may be hit for a bit more than 100GBP for shipping when you've got a radiator that probably weighs 10-11kg by itself. It really depends on the supplier, the courier they use and the breakpoints they use for shipping cost by weight.

I was sad enough to sit playing around for about 2 weeks between 4 different suppliers working out which was the most cost efficient way of shipping 90kg of parts

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Well for 20kg of stuff it cost 85 pound to be shipped over by DHL...

Some of the items in that list are 2 of

Quote:

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Originally Posted by klappers

Shouldnt I already have the updated crank pulley ? 97 Tdi?

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You miss my point, the updated genuine part is suspect.
The aftermarket item is a better alternative, there have been a number of genuine crank pulleys that have let go, here and the UK.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by klappers

Why not?? Should you be able to push out the old with the new and rotate the crank?

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Whilst it's doable it sure wouldn't be easy, and the worst part is you disturb the 'T' seals on the rear main cap so you would have to replace them too, introducing a potential leak point as the original ones are RTV silicon injected under pressure.

I dropped a few caps and decided the mains were OK so they went back together, not that I was intending to replace them anyway, I only had big ends and thrust bearings in stock, and I didn't bother swapping the thrusts out either.

Im with Rick, Its the T-seals that will upset the apple cart for the mains insitu.
Tis possible, but probably not advisable!

Big ends are easy insitu and from what I have seen from a couple of 300s wear more quickly than the mains.

either way have fun.
Steve

Just out of curiosity, have you priced the same items from an Aussie supplier and what was the price difference?