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Thread: Revs dont drop....

  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Lismore, NSW
    Posts
    503
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    I had this problem recently when I replaced the rocker cover gaskets. Turned out to be the plug on the rear of the air inlet chamber (over the top of the motor). This plug is on the drivers side at the rear of the motor. I had forgotten to plug it back in. After reading the Rave CD and learning that the idle speed is set at the factory and not able to be adjusted, I went looking back over what I had done and found this plug. After reconnecting it, everything returned to normal.
    Warren

    Currently Landroverless - Still interested
    Formerly: 2003 D2a Update TD5 Auto. Platinum edition. ARB Bar, 36" LED light bar, cargo barrier, dual batteries.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Traralgon, Victoria
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    120
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    I braved the bad weather and pulled apart the IAC, removed the emission system hoses and the breather flame trap.
    I gave the IAC valve a squirt of CRC switch cleaner/lubricant,
    replaced 2 hoses going from the top of the crankcase breather/flame trap as they had split. I just saw now that the hose that runs inline from the breather to the from of the plenum chamber was split too! Both replaced.
    Cleaned the lubed the throttle linkages/springs and there's nothing broken there.
    Gave the car a run and noticed a definite improvement.... but it still jumps up only to 1000rpm as opposed to 1500-2000. It seems alot calmer. Warren9981, I think you're speaking of the plug that connects to the IAC?

  3. #13
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by JMAN View Post
    Gave the car a run and noticed a definite improvement.... but it still jumps up only to 1000rpm as opposed to 1500-2000. It seems alot calmer.


    ..... You still got more cleaning to do ....




    Butterfly (throttle) inside the plentium .... Hold it open and clean the area with a soft rag with fluid on it ..... and you still have the Hot wire on the MAF

    Also have a look at the vacuum hose going from the plentium to the Dizzy ... Take it off from the Dizzy side and suck on it, to make sure the plentium hole is not blocked ///// Then connect it back to the vacuum advance and suck on the hose again, this time to make sure the vacuum advance is working


    Mike

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Traralgon, Victoria
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    UPDATE

    I checked the vacuum advance and it was loose against the side of the distributor, so I tightened the two hex screws...snug again.
    The rotor: the brass part was sitting free in the rout of the plastic and came off as soon I I touched it. I have a new one coming (genuine part from Rover Parts Plus). I rammed a screw into the brass part to keep in contact...this will be a standby part now!
    Dizzy cap: The terminals were burnt and in my attempt to lightly sand the electrodes, the contact connected to the spring at the top of inside of the cap popped out. (got another cap coming from Rover Parts Plus. A genuine part too).
    Cleaned the plenum chamber and where the hose from the vacuum advance connects to the chamber.
    I also think a new set of plugs might help as the iridium ones in there have done far more than 80/100k...
    HT leads are quite recent and have checked them in darkness etc. All good.
    MAF done and voltage set to 1.05v using a digital multimeter (NON CAT setting specs). I sprayed the hot wire resistor through the hole with a fair bit of CRC contact cleaner and noticed a change in colour from tarnished looing legs to a silver shine. I recall the time I first checked the MAF a couple of years back with a digital meter and the volt reading was up around 2.5v! It always stanck of fuel but since I;ve wound it down to the 1v area it's been alot better. The plugs have been far less sooty, and now I find brownish deposits on the plugs.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Traralgon, Victoria
    Posts
    120
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    The new dizzy cap and rotor have helped smooth out the idle a little. But the revs still don't drop when the clutch is depressed... might have to lip the clutch a bit etc too see if I can free a possible stuck clutch where the disc might be adhered to the flywheel.

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