ChatterBox
Quite right, I was not specific enough but I also did not say the one motor.Originally Posted by isuzurover
I said a Mercedes, and i also said many Taxis that do 1 mil km's.
I do seem to remember that there were other motors but heck, so be it.
So long as it wasn't an Isuzu engine. He would have had no passengers.
They would have all been deafened.
Oh and greece, spain and italy was not exactly known for their quality of fuel in those days.
Wizard
A feel terrible for my 300Tdi!
330,000 on the clock and i give it the worst conditions! due to being on call in the NSW Fire brigade 90% of my drives are short 5km trips from home to the fire station with NO warm up and straight into thrashing it! and it is rare for the old girl to travel more then 20Km in a trip.
James.
RoverLord
nahh you stay on top of the oil changes and keep the cooling system smick and it'll go forever like that.
might want a set of bearings and rings at 500K tho
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
A number of years ago a DSTO scientist posted on a moto guzzi forum the optimum way to warm up an engine. I did a cut and paste but can't find it at the moment, but I can summarize from my beer soaked memory. The idea is to get the engine to a safe operating condition and then gentle driving until the normal operating conditions are met, then normal driving can commence. His description of safe operating condition was highly technical involving thermal expansions, oil viscosity ect but basically came down to getting the temperature to a point where minimal load would not affect the ability of the bearings and oil to function correctly. Unless you had temperature monitoring of the bearings and detailed knowledge of oil performance verses temperature, the best “rule of thumb” would be when the Idle is at normal, oil pressure has stabilized and the engine temperature gauge has just started to move, depending on the ambient temperature and vehicle type this could be anywhere from 30 seconds to 1 min or more. The idea behind gentle driving its to get the whole drive train diffs,transfer,gearbox to a normal operating temperature with minimal load
Swaggie
No thrashing, no idling, no lugging in high gears. This applies hot or cold.
Cold starts should just be a switch on, put on seatbelt, release park brake and drive NORMALLY off down the road. IF climbing a BIG hill first off, just don't perform any of the activities listed at the start of this post, and drive NORMALLY.
Very importantly make sure the cooling system is working right, IE operational thermostat.
Babying a Diesel engine, or petrol for that matter, is detrimental to its lifespan.
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
I justy start it, let it idle while I put on the seatbelt, adjust the radio etc, then off down the road with the accelerator at a steady position until the end of the street, after which I figure its ready to go normally.
Posting Permissions
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks