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Thread: 300tdi - sudden engine knocking/ticking

  1. #1
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    Question 300tdi - sudden engine knocking/ticking

    98 300tdi auto Discovery. 214k on the clock. Has recently developed a loud knocking in the engine recently. Apparently also corresponds with a loss of power. (Wifes car so symptoms are a bit sketchy ). I've attached a mp3 recording of the sound in case it helps.

    When cold, it sounds fine for about 30 seconds before quickly developing. I took the rocker cover off tonight to check for any broken stem caps but all good. Started checking clearances, but the combination of fading light, killer mosquitos and impatience led me indoors.

    The fact that the knocking has appeared suddenly would indicate to me that perhaps clearances are not the problem anyway but am no expert.

    Anyone have any suggestions for other things to check before i sell my last remaining kidney and send it to Ritters?

    Thanks
    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #2
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    Maybe shoot off a PM to rick130 re big end bearings. That's what it sounds like to me.

  3. #3
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    Sounds awfully like Big ends to me, don't run it again. Remove the sump and check it out.

    Possibly another 1998 Tdi with big end faults! I wonder if you could post up pics of the shells if it IS the problem, I would be interested to see if they have delaminated, like all the other 1998 edition engines with the same fault that I have seen....

    Good luck.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  4. #4
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    Sounds a little like its running on three?

    I feel your pain - been there done that (wow nearly 10 years ago!!!)
    Spun number 1 big end bearing, thats just what it sounded like before the piston caught an edge and did the deed...
    Stop running the engine get it sorted.
    Hope its not fatal but it sounds like badness.
    big badda boom bottom end badness????

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  5. #5
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    Too quick Justin - scratch up another '98 eh!
    BTW mine was a '95.

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    Too quick Justin - scratch up another '98 eh!
    BTW mine was a '95.

    S
    Yes, I am wondering if there is a conspiracy theory here, I have seen 2 broken cranks, 4 sets of big end failures,(ALL delaminated) and ALL in 1998 (WA vin) vehicles

    Very puzzling

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the responses guys. So it's not looking good assuming you're right. What's involved in replacing the big end bearings. Can it be done in situ without too much difficulty? Worst case - the crank needs machining too? Are parts for the job exxy?

    We'd been talking about selling this thing for a while now - guess i should of acted a little sooner...

  8. #8
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    Until you pull the sump it is hard to gauge what is going on.

    Mayhaps, if you have the time and inclination, pull the sump (easy just a swag of 10mm bolts after dropping the oil ) take a swag of photos and post them up for an AULRO analysis?? You may also need to pull the four big end caps ( once again easy enough)

    The way it stands - you need to tow it to a mechanic for work anyways; so disabling the engine and getting a possible interweb diagnosis wont hurt the situation any?

    And then we get to looksee at some tdi carnage

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  9. #9
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    If you are going to pull the sump, it is easier with the suspension at full droop, and the sway bar needs to be disconnected to allow the sump to clear the pick up on the way out.

    All the big ends can be accessed easily from then on, you can rotate the engine to remove rods 1 and 4 caps, then rotate around the remove rods 2 and 3 caps.
    You will need a 14mm 12 point socket to undo them, they won't/ shouldn't be excessively tight.

    Pics would be excellent

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  10. #10
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    whats a "sway bar" Justin... never seen one
    forgot about that!

    Just to add to Justins very good points, maybe pull the injectors or glowies first, it will make spinning the crank easier.

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

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