Thread: Engine from manual Tdi into auto - problems

Yes, flywheel housing is completely different. AND if you are fitting a manual engine to an auto, make sure you chip out the spigot bush from the rear of the crankshaft. It is a small bronze bush tapped into the end of the crank not needed in autos. Will NOT allow torque converter to fit in if you leave it in place.



JC

Hi Sparky, I'm doing the exact opposite replacement, my 300 tdi motor blew up (manual set up) and I got an Auto motor replacement, my manual flywheel housing got damaged in the detenation (BANG!!!) Any chance you want to get rid of the manual flywheel housing you've got?

OK I have swapped the auto and manual flywheel housings, replaced the rear crankshaft bearing seal, and I offer up the auto driveplate to the spigot where the manual flywheel was, and the centre is the wrong size, the driveplate centre is much bigger and so it does not have a snug fit. Looking at the spigot on the auto engine, there is an additional ring of metal, about 10-12mm thick making the place where the auto driveplate attaches stick out a bit further, and this extra piece has a wider centre. The Haynes manual says tat at the time of printing no information was available about the removal and refitting of the driveplate. No help there. Has anyone done this before? Do I try and get this additional piece off the crankshaft spigot on the auto engine, how does it come off? Is this what justinc is referring to because it looks like it is needed on the auto and not on the manual.
Cheers

Originally Posted by sparky

OK I have swapped the auto and manual flywheel housings, repalced the rear crankshaft bearing seal, and I offer up the auto driveplate to the spigot where the manual flywheel was, and the centre is the wrong size, the driveplate centre is much bigger and so it does not have a snug fit. Looking at the spigot on the auto engine, there is an additional ring of metalabout 10-12mm thick making the place where the auto driveplate attaches stick out a bit further, and this extra piece has a wider centre. The Haynes manual says tat at the time of printing no information was available about the removal and refitting of the driveplate. No help there. Has anyone done this before? Do I try and get this additional piece off the crankshaft spigot on the auto engine, how does it come off? Is this what justinc is referring to because it looks like it is needed on the auto and not on the manual.
Cheers

No, I think Justinc is refering to the actual Bronze spiggot bush that sits in the rear of the crank shaft, on a manual motor, that the main shaft would seat into, that bush needs to be removed. I'm not sure exactly what your refering to but I have my Auto motor('96) and Manual motor('97) side by side at the moment and I'll check when I get home from work in the morning (night shift at the moment). any chance you could post up a pic?

Hi Sparky,

OK I had a look at both of mine and all should be fine. You should have a couple of shims and an adapter to go with your auto fly wheel. these look identical to the rear of the crankshaft (full of holes)

To fit: locate a shim onto the rear of the crank (Crank should have a locating lug) then the thick adapter (again onto the cranks locating lug), the another shim and then your auto fly wheel. (the adapter plate also has a locating lug for the second shim and the fly wheel) They should all line up because of the locating lugs and then just bolt her up.

I hope this helps. If I get a chance later (we're about to go out for tea) I'll take some pics and try and post them up for you.

Ok still not quite there, so here are pictures. I have measured the spigots on the camshaft, and the auto one is 46mm in diameter where the driveplate goes and the manual one is 38mm where the clutch goes, there is definitely an additional thickness to the auto one, see below.
IMG_0074.jpg
manual one
IMG_0073.jpg
manual one closer
IMG_0070.jpg
original auto engine, you can see it sticks further out from the engine block and has another section on the drive

Originally Posted by sparky

Ok still not quite there, so here are pictures. I have measured the spigots on the camshaft, and the auto one is 46mm in diameter where the driveplate goes and the manual one is 38mm where the clutch goes, there is definitely an additional thickness to the auto one, see below.
IMG_0074.jpg
manual one
IMG_0073.jpg
manual one closer
IMG_0070.jpg
original auto engine, you can see it sticks further out from the engine block and has another section on the drive

Yes that's right. The 3rd pick on the original Auto engine shows the adapter still on the back of the crank (or spiggot as you call it) thats why it sticks out further. just lever that off and put it on your manual motor then your Auto Fly wheel will bolt straight up. My explaination in my last post had the shims out of order, it should be
Crank, then thin shim, then thick adapter, the fly wheel and then thick shim and then bolt her up

Sparky, don't forget to chip out the bronze Spiggot Bush in the rear of the crank or as Justinc said in his post your torque converter won't fit up properly.