Thread: 3.5v8i questions

usually if it gets cold in your area this spitting is condensation in the exhaust and is normal the black smoke means it is too rich or the choke is on and a bit too rich, so long as it goes away after it warms up

Thanks for the prompt reply mate. Thats one less worry off my shoulders
So i guess if i still have consistent moisture out of the exhaust after a decent drive then i would have a leaking block? Are there other ways that i can identify if there is coolant leaking into the engine (touch wood this never happens!).

Regarding the choke, the engine does idle around quite high around 900-1000rpm even when the engine is hot and after a long drive.
How do i adjust the choke?

So i guess if i still have consistent moisture out of the exhaust after a decent drive then i would have a leaking block? Are there other ways that i can identify if there is coolant leaking into the engine (touch wood this never happens!).

it should spit ater for up to 5 min.
take it to a radiator shop and get them to check for exhaust gases in the coolant
i don't know about the choke as i have a TDi

The issue i have is that every time i start the motor up it makes a rather loud 'klanking' or 'knocking' noise. It definitely not coming from the engine itself but rather a worn pulley bearing or maybe the power steering pump internals itself.

The noise is the drive belt to the alternator and or PS pump slipping under the initial big load of the low battery.
There is no bearing in the PS pulley.
You might check that the three bolts are tight.
A new belt or adjusting the alternator belt tighter may help, as will "CRC belt dressing".
Moisture in exhaust.
One of the by products of combustion is water. when cold this condenses in teh cold exhaust. when hot it is expelled as vapour which is not visible.

3. 4.6v8 RR P38 engine and drive train into a Disco?

Depends.
if you use the anciliaries of the 3.5 and the timing case, V belts, and the 3.5 transmission etc, there is NO fabrication necessary as all Rover v8 blocks are backward compatable.( except for a spacer on the crank front)

You would need a chip from Mark Adams in the 14CUX to handle fuelling for the 4.6 at high speed.
If you want teh 4.6 from the P38 fitted with all the bits from a P38 then you have a problem as the electronics are very difficult to adapt and the transmission is longer so would need adjustment to mounts and driveshafts.
Regard sPhilip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

The noise is the drive belt to the alternator and or PS pump slipping under the initial big load of the low battery.
There is no bearing in the PS pulley.
You might check that the three bolts are tight.
A new belt or adjusting the alternator belt tighter may help, as will "CRC belt dressing".
Moisture in exhaust.
One of the by products of combustion is water. when cold this condenses in teh cold exhaust. when hot it is expelled as vapour which is not visible.
A

Sweet....i'll give the 3 bolts a check in the morning.
The belt tension seems ok with about 4mm slack or there abouts (according to Mr. Haynes) but i am planning to change all the belts when the next service is due.
Maybe with all my trigger happy WD40 could have cause slippage with the PS belt

Regarding the 4.6 engine....so basically i can just use the 4.6 long block from the p38 and still use the 3.5 ecu (chipped) and everything else it'll be good to go?
I thought the P38 also uses the same ZF4HP22 tranny as the 3.5. Is it longer due to the bellhousing?

Do you know if the engine mounts are the same?

Is the plenum chamber for the 3.5, 3.9 and 4.6 the same length/size? are they interchangeable ?

Maybe with all my trigger happy WD40 could have cause slippage with the PS belt

yes , and that shuts it up.

Regarding the 4.6 engine....so basically i can just use the 4.6 long block from the p38 and still use the 3.5 ecu (chipped) and everything else it'll be good to go?

Yes, plus a spacer for the front pulley, and a cover for the hole in the flywheel and using a 3.5-3.9 cam and front cover.

I thought the P38 also uses the same ZF4HP22 tranny as the 3.5. Is it longer due to the bellhousing?

The 3.5 Disco probably uses a 4HP22 ( I don't know for sure as a RRC 3.5 uses a 2HP22) which has a mechanical kick down. But the 3.5 Disco was contemporary to the 3.9RRC so should share the 4HP22.

The P38 uses AFAIK a 4HP24E which has electronic control, and a larger TC, oil pump and clutches which makes it longer.

Do you know if the engine mounts are the same?

yes and yes

Is the plenum chamber for the 3.5, 3.9 and 4.6 the same length/size? are they interchangeable ?

yes sort of.
AFAIK the trumpets and plenum are the same but the ID of the throttle body is bigger on a 4.6. Whether there is some difference in volume I am not sure but a 3.5 inlet will fit on a 4.6.
Regards Philip A

Thanks for all the input PhillipA.

I recently got all the Vbelts replaced, and she's running sweet ass. No more noises too! I could feel how much smoother and happier of an engine she's become. I didnt think the belt change would make that much difference as i regularly check the tension and for any cracks.
One of the pulley tensioner broke while tightening the bolt (pic attached).


A funny thing thats been bugging me is the battery warning light on the dash.
A very small dim light will appear only at night. This is happens when i start the engine and BEFORE i turn on any head lights or aircon etc.
It never happens during the day even if i turn on the head lights in broad daylight. This gets me scratching my head everytime
I got a volt meter installed and voltage is quite healthy at 14.3v. Any electric gurus able to shed some light?


Also this may be a silly question but how do you guys clean your engine?
Mine's got quite a fair bit of grease and dirt build up on the engine and so i was wondering how you guys go about getting a bit of shine back to the engine?
Do i use a engine degreaser and pressure hose it down?
What else should i cover/protect besides the distributor?
Belts and alternator are alright with water?


Cheers,
Jonno

A funny thing thats been bugging me is the battery warning light on the dash.
A very small dim light will appear only at night. This is happens when i start the engine and BEFORE i turn on any head lights or aircon etc.
It never happens during the day even if i turn on the head lights in broad daylight. This gets me scratching my head everytime

The red light measures the difference in voltage between the alternator and battery.
The most probable reason is a poor earth somewhere, especially between engine and body. Clean all the earths from the battery especially the one from body to engine down near the starter.

You could test it by joining a battery jumper between the battery earth and alternator body. I bet the light goes out.

Also this may be a silly question but how do you guys clean your engine?
Mine's got quite a fair bit of grease and dirt build up on the engine and so i was wondering how you guys go about getting a bit of shine back to the engine?
Do i use a engine degreaser and pressure hose it down?
What else should i cover/protect besides the distributor?
Belts and alternator are alright with water?

Well yes carefully.
Dizzy, plugs, alternator are the main worries. Each injector plug should have a sealing gasket but people lose them so be careful around the injector plugs also.

Regards Philip A