Thread: 300Tdi remove ignition barrel help please

I got the whole key barrel lock assembly replacement from karcraft, thought i'd pop it in today as it looks like an easy job... wrong



my bolt heads are recessed out of reach, i've tried the chisel idea, but they are not budging... because they are so far recessed I can't get much of an angle on them.
any other ideas??

Originally Posted by gmeddy

I got the whole key barrel lock assembly replacement from karcraft, thought i'd pop it in today as it looks like an easy job... wrong



my bolt heads are recessed out of reach, i've tried the chisel idea, but they are not budging... because they are so far recessed I can't get much of an angle on them.
any other ideas??

Centre punch, then drill out. If you had a screw extractor you could drill it to a smaller drill size than the bolt. Also if you have another alloy clamp cut a slot in the bolt head through the alloy with an angle grinder and 2.5mm cutting wheel.

here's what I did.

I took a flat head screw driver attachment from my cordless impact driver, and sharpened it on the grinder.
used it as a mini chisel to create a groove in the head of the bolt.
half an hour of banging away and I had a decent groove.
Put the screw driver attachment back into the cordless impact driver, push very hard behind it and reverse drive... the first one came out easy... the second one took about 5 re-grooving's.



not a job I ever want to do again.

20 mins to swap over barrel ????????
I've been at it for 2 hours trying to remove the rounded head bolts(what idiot thought of that) and in the end I've pulled the 4 wires off the back of the barrel and have hot-wired to start it.
I will set up a switch under the dash to start it as the key is still used for the steering lock and the central locking works just fine no matter which way you use to start.
When I get back from my first adventure with the new camper on back, I will check out prices, but this seems to be a common theme for Pumas, so I might just stay with the on/off switch under the dash.

It took me maybe 10 or 15 minutes to remove mine with a cold chisel wedging between the aluminium halves, in order to cut through the bolt

its hard to describe but worked like a charm

Locksmith near me knows this problem well and said it is a 20 minute job and they charge $45 to $60. It is the very last blade in the lock that fails so this is the bit they remove or replace for you. No need to do all the chiseling or changing locks. My son inlaw's D2 had the same problem and had if fixed for $180 but didn't tell me till after he had it towed home and fixed onsite.