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Thread: underbody overhaul

  1. #11
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    Rear Axle before the POR-15 repaint

    This is the before paint photo...axle has been cleaned, sanded, rust converted..it took hours....I will post the after phots tomorrow;



    ..Shiny and black...that wont last long (you can see the new trailing arms in place also)

  2. #12
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    ON to the front axle now...started to de-greased it this morning...this photo gives you an idea of the state of things underneath - nothing more serious than surface rust, but high time to sort it out.
    Once it is de-greased, rust converted and painted, on will go a new set of suspension bushes and 3 degree QT cranked radius arms.

  3. #13
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    aaa

  4. #14
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    POR-15 paint failure

    Disapointed today to find that the POR-15 paint has failed on the cast metal of the rear dif. I followed the instructions meticulously, degrease with marine clean, wash and allow to dry, then coat with metal prep, then wash again and allow to dry, then two coats of POR-15.

    In many sections of the diff the paint just peels off with bit of a scratch with a spatula- no trouble, it would not stand up against repeted stones, mud etc....very unhappy about this. It is supposed to bond and cure within 96 hours..it has been on for almost a month now.

    It has also failed in 1 or two very small places on the seams of the rear axle, but not as bad as the almost complete failure on the cast metal.

    Anyone considering using POR-15, at this point I would advise against using it on cast metal components...I would be reluctant to recommend anyone use it at all now though...unitl I re coat and see what happens.

    I will be following this por-15 coating with Dynax UB, an underbody wax - in hindsight its possible that just using a normal enamal underbody paint, followed by Dynax UB, would have been fine.

    Anyway, I will re-treat the sections that failed first time aroud and report back in a few weeks.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    tom price the pilbra, west aust
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    I only ever high pressure wash the underneath then underbody wax the the lot, I also use old sump oil in the cavities under there, mainly the chassis rails and sills, not a sign of rust despite alot of beach driving and heaps of rock mud offroad, I have had excellent results with POR15 on a classic car I restored and used almost daily but not on cast metal.

  6. #16
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    HI Ade,

    Yes, I am just going to remove all the por 15 paint off the cast section of the diff housing and just re-test a small section before I re coat the whole thing with por 15 again.

    If the test section fails a second time, it will just get Dynax UB under body wax.

    In hindsight I probably could have got away with a good clean, a rust converter and just the dynax under body wax.... the POr 15 had definitely made this a longer ( much, much longer) job.

  7. #17
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    Started cleaning the long range tanks today. Started out looking like this;



    Ended up looking like this;




    Tomorrow is metal ready/ rust conversion and then Monday is the first coat of POR-15.

  8. #18
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    Well, after cleaning and rust prepping the long range tanks, I then painted all the bare metal bits with 2 coats of Por-15, waited a week and today put on the coat of primer over the whole lot.
    Next up, two coats of Por-15, followed by two coats of Dynax. Hopefully by then, my new radius arms have turned up from the UK,one of these days I will get the disco back on the road.

  9. #19
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    Jul 2010
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    Your far too patient this is mud time. It's time to get her dirty. Put her back together take her for a run up to a nice muddy track and sink the boot in. Your missing out on the fun season

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by nicho View Post
    Your far too patient this is mud time. It's time to get her dirty. Put her back together take her for a run up to a nice muddy track and sink the boot in. Your missing out on the fun season
    So true but the problem is its out of rego and I am waiting for parts from the UK...going to do this once and do it right

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