Thread: Need advice for buying Disco I 1999 2.5 TDi

That is very nice, the only thing missing is leather seats which is nice and easy to clean.
I see iy still has original header tank, they are very prone to cracking, after-market one is pretty cheap.
Also get a low water alarm asap, they are very cheap insurance and brilliant as these motors overheat very quickly and cost a bomb to rebuild.

The intercooler hose also looks a bit funky, it may pay to get a set of quality silicone hoses, they can delaminate internally and or compress and greatly affect the performance.

I would perhaps get full new sets of hoses and belts and use the ones u take off as spares.

Definately get the timing belt and kit done if it hasn't already, if that goes bang, well more $$$.

The money is high but these cars if a good one is found will easily fetch that.
A few accessories like a locker, lift kit and proper suspension like Koni and lovell springs and some guards for underbody etc will quickly bring the total price to $15k.

Oh, and get the whole cooling system checked, perhaps rodded but definately do not skimp here.

Gday
Its very common that the oil cooler hoses fail and leak on to the top of the front diff area. his might explain the oil around the steering damper too?? It might also be the sump gasket? These hoses can be replaced through someone like Enzed or anyone that does hydraulic hoses - OE is not great.

I also notice that it still has the black plastic bungs on the radiator and thermostat housing - replace these with brass ones at the same time that you put in the coolant alarm and the new coolant reservoir.

looks a good unit

Lindsay

As far as I'm aware, In Australia and UK D1's were not built after Sept 98 and I own a Sept 98 D1 V8 LS as well as Casper my 97 300TDI auto and I can say that after about 96 they are of a lot better build quality than earlier ones.

I noticed that yours has a MAF sensor on the intake meaning that you have the electronic boost controller which none of us in Oz (unless we have an import) would be all the used to as ours didn't come out with it, our boost control is done mechanically which I believe is a bit more reliable but I don't know from any of my personal experience.

They are a brilliant car if your prepared to tinker and play with it like a hobby and make it like part of the family as they tend to have a lot of little things go wrong which if repaired when they first show up don't become big problems but if left will cost you dearly.

Preventative maintenance is the key and as already mentioned, if you chose to purchase it, do the timing belt now, you can find all the information you need on this site and while you have it apart, clean out the radiator and intercooler, replace all the hoses and inspect your power steering lines as they have a tendency to leak and/or wear through at the mounting brackets on the chassis.

As said before also, Vacpump can leak oil (can be repaired with small nuts and bolts, oil cooler lines can vibrate loose and or leak at the crimps on the lines and keep your cooling system in tip top condition.

Change your coolant annually, fit the updated expansion tank and if you desire a low coolant alarm to let you know of any leaks quickly.

Keep an eye on your wheel bearings and axle seals as wheel bearings can loosen off a little causing vague steering and brakes as will drastically shorten the life of your bearings and seals.

I've done a steering box in both Disco's, the bearings and seals can be upgraded but is not cheap but worth it as it gives much better feel in the steering.

Don;t worry about it being an auto, I know of many more R380 manuals that have fallen to pieces than ZF's but in saying that they will if it does stuff up cost in the vicinity of $3k Au for a rebuild but mines done 360,000 kms so far with minimal problems.

Change the fluid and filter annually and it will live a long life, if it gets heavy usage e.g. lots of 4wding and or towing maybe add a trans cooler and upgrade the spec of fluid used when doing the change.

I did my head gasket at 320,000 due to it blowing out on No.4 at the back of the head, no over heating or noticeable loss of power, just a puffing sound.

Had the head checked and was only a couple of thou off flat so was just lightly cleaned up, crack and hardness tested and refitted with a new gasket.

I did all hoses and belts at the same time and doing it myself, it cost me about $1200 all up.

The basic rule with any car is, keep up the regular maintenance and checks and they will give you very little trouble, and with a Landy this is even more the fact.

Good luck, hope you buy it and love it as much as we all love ours.

Cheers Casper

Thank you so much for this, and what about the part that holds the front wheels (shaft? Bearings? I try to learn the terms too...english is not my first language), with the oil marks? I've heard that it can have problem and might lead to lost of control....the mechanic mentioned something like this and it needs to be imported.

Also, do you have a place you could advise to order the parts you mentioned, I ask this because if I ordered it myself it will be certainly cheaper and then I can try to do it . I am willing to learn so there is no problem for it. If you can also tell me the types of tools that I should get it will be nice too, as I only brought my swiss knife here .

Cheers.

You are referring to the slight oil staining around the swivel housing - it doesnt look too bad to me. If it was a bad leak it would drip onto the tyres. One day when you have the hubs apart you can renew the seal and fill up with new grease ( or oil).

Lindsay

Originally Posted by Casper

As far as I'm aware, In Australia and UK D1's were not built after Sept 98 and I own a Sept 98 D1 V8 LS as well as Casper my 97 300TDI auto and I can say that after about 96 they are of a lot better build quality than earlier ones.

I noticed that yours has a MAF sensor on the intake meaning that you have the electronic boost controller which none of us in Oz (unless we have an import) would be all the used to as ours didn't come out with it, our boost control is done mechanically which I believe is a bit more reliable but I don't know from any of my personal experience.

They are a brilliant car if your prepared to tinker and play with it like a hobby and make it like part of the family as they tend to have a lot of little things go wrong which if repaired when they first show up don't become big problems but if left will cost you dearly.

Preventative maintenance is the key and as already mentioned, if you chose to purchase it, do the timing belt now, you can find all the information you need on this site and while you have it apart, clean out the radiator and intercooler, replace all the hoses and inspect your power steering lines as they have a tendency to leak and/or wear through at the mounting brackets on the chassis.

As said before also, Vacpump can leak oil (can be repaired with small nuts and bolts, oil cooler lines can vibrate loose and or leak at the crimps on the lines and keep your cooling system in tip top condition.

Change your coolant annually, fit the updated expansion tank and if you desire a low coolant alarm to let you know of any leaks quickly.

Keep an eye on your wheel bearings and axle seals as wheel bearings can loosen off a little causing vague steering and brakes as will drastically shorten the life of your bearings and seals.

I've done a steering box in both Disco's, the bearings and seals can be upgraded but is not cheap but worth it as it gives much better feel in the steering.

Don;t worry about it being an auto, I know of many more R380 manuals that have fallen to pieces than ZF's but in saying that they will if it does stuff up cost in the vicinity of $3k Au for a rebuild but mines done 360,000 kms so far with minimal problems.

Change the fluid and filter annually and it will live a long life, if it gets heavy usage e.g. lots of 4wding and or towing maybe add a trans cooler and upgrade the spec of fluid used when doing the change.

I did my head gasket at 320,000 due to it blowing out on No.4 at the back of the head, no over heating or noticeable loss of power, just a puffing sound.

Had the head checked and was only a couple of thou off flat so was just lightly cleaned up, crack and hardness tested and refitted with a new gasket.

I did all hoses and belts at the same time and doing it myself, it cost me about $1200 all up.

The basic rule with any car is, keep up the regular maintenance and checks and they will give you very little trouble, and with a Landy this is even more the fact.

Good luck, hope you buy it and love it as much as we all love ours.

Cheers Casper

Thank you very much for this, it is very encouraging!

This disco is already in my mind and eventhough everyone is telling me to get away from it, I just can't....why is that? ???

Well, as mentioned, that is why I am trying to get as much info about what to do, because I am ready to do some investment in maintenance so it last me long and I can rely on it.

Regarding oil leaking, the mechanic mentioned something like gaskets or joints (seems not to come from the engine but near the oil filter). He mentioned also that the car has a lot of electronic (electronic boost control?) and I am not sure how here they can work with it...so do you think there are thinks in the long run I can take care of or take rid of? Is this possible?

cheers.

I much prefer the auto to manual having now owned both (in the one car - sigh) for both daily driving and offroading. Auto is 11tybillion times better on sand too.

Originally Posted by celsius

This disco is already in my mind and eventhough everyone is telling me to get away from it, I just can't....why is that? ???

Land Rovers, like most non Japanese cars, have soul. They have that certain something that makes you realise they are not bland whitegoods made for people that just want transport, and for this reason we forgive them of far more than we'd ever put up with in a Camry.