Thread: Frayed timing belt at 45k

I thought you needed a different bracket to hold the pump against the block. Something to do with the different expansion rates of alloy and the iron block therefore needing to allow the pump to float and not fixed tight against the block.

Originally Posted by slug_burner

I thought you needed a different bracket to hold the pump against the block. Something to do with the different expansion rates of alloy and the iron block therefore needing to allow the pump to float and not fixed tight against the block.

Any more info on that?

Where to get the bracket?

Bit more research it has the updated rear mount

Originally Posted by Jock The Rock

Bit more research it has the updated rear mount

Jock,
How can you tell if you have the updated bracket? Also when you put the new belt on did you torque to the new 11nm setting? I'm just wondering if my belt was to tight and if this caused the belt to drift out and rub the timing cover.
Cheers
Mark

Where the bolts go through the bracket and pump housing it should look like this:



JC did all mine for me so I imagine so

I reckon I'll pull mine off and retension it just to make sure

Originally Posted by Discomark

Thanks Arthur,

I looked at the link and the following made sence.

"Imagine two drums with a belt running between them. Say the belt is not central on the drums, but tending to run to the RH side of the drums. You can either increase belt tension on the RH side, or relieve it on the LH side - either way the belt will move left towards the side of least tension, not towards the "high point". Wrong!

So as the belt is running clockwise mine is running to the right (looking directly from above from drivers side of car) so it sounds like I need to increase tension to the right of the belt in order to get it to track left. However to increase tension to the right I would have to move the back of the pump closer to the engine block I would have thought which is the opposite to the original thoughts?

In other words if I was holding the pump in my hands as if it where unattached to the housing (don't worry I won't try this!) and I wanted to get the belt to fly off, I would tilt the back end of the pump towards me increasing pressure to the left of the belt and the belt should run off to the right.

Cheers

Mark

Hi again Mark

I had better put this explaination in my own words.

To draw the picture, imagine the belt as a road with a centre line .

Place a vehicle with articulated steering on that road and with its centre steering pin over the middle of the road.

To turn this vehicle left when going forward, the axles ends, on the left hand side, must then be moved closer together and the opposite end of the axle on the right hand side of the vehicle, are moved further apart.

Then as the road passes under the left turning vehicle, the centre line of the road, moves to the right of the vehicles centre.

How did I go, does it make sense now?

Cheers Arthur

Hi All

Has anyone had the chance to compare the timing belt housings from the 200 TDi and the 300TDi?

Compared with the 200, the 300 is a lot lighter in strength and really does need that bracket to support the rear of the injector pump.
In my opinion, that bracket should be fixed firm both to the injector pump, the engine block and not be allowed to float.

More controversy!

Cheers Arthur

Originally Posted by Discomark

Jock,
How can you tell if you have the updated bracket? Also when you put the new belt on did you torque to the new 11nm setting? I'm just wondering if my belt was to tight and if this caused the belt to drift out and rub the timing cover.
Cheers
Mark

One sign although I don't know if all mechanics do it is that there is meant to be a yellow paint mark on the timing belt housing. But I think that Jock has got you the info you need.