with the ENGINE at the normal operating temperature....
which means that the engine is idling normally and is not on the high idle setting.
2-3 minutes of idling with a blanket thrown around the front end of the car will achive this.
Don't bet on showing the trans builder the official LR word.
RAVE Maintenance section says check fluid cold, idling in PARK
RAVE ZF Section says NEUTRAL selected at FULL operating temperature
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with the ENGINE at the normal operating temperature....
which means that the engine is idling normally and is not on the high idle setting.
2-3 minutes of idling with a blanket thrown around the front end of the car will achive this.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
I have owned my D1 for about 6 years and I have followed the instruction in my owners manual, same as P 108 above. Always checked when cold with ambient around 20 degrees and have not had a problem. Vehicle has now done in excess of 333,333.3 km
All The Three's
Dave.
Another 5,000 Klm engine oil and filter change coming up, as the Disco's next service is due at 520,000 Klm's.
I will be checking the transmission oil as well, From my first Holden auto to this Disco, I have always done it this way, on level ground started the engine gave it a bit of a rev, waited a minute or so with the motor idling, then after wiping the dipstick clean, dipped it again and read it.
So if the oil is on the dipstick and not on the ground under the car, I am happy.
I last changed the Transmission oil and filter at 500,000 Klm's, the filter was doing its job and the oil was a bit dark, so maybe will now make the transmission service interval every 50,000 Klm's instead of 100,000 Klm's .
Fresh oil is a lot better in price compared to the cost of parts for a rebuild.
.
Last edited by wrinklearthur; 16th December 2011 at 10:56 PM. Reason: more oil
Arthur. Although no longer relevant, you would have been driving your old Holdens with around half to three quarters of a litre with too much oil. Most cars should be checked at normal operating temp, not cold. Below is an extract from a Trimatic auto repair manual. I also checked Powerglide and it was the same. So this covers auto's in Holdens from 65 HD through to 1985/6 VH commodore.
Dave.
yeah but the traumatic had a history of overheating and blowing out seals if overfull same as some alisons.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Oh what a traumatic wakeup call !
I concede that one should read the appropriate section of the owners manual on maintenance of automatic's.
Hi Linds,
Not sure why your repairer would want to run oil at a lower level than what is regarded as the correct level, what is the logic behind this? With less oil everything is working against you, the tranny cooler has to work harder, the oil will run hotter especially when towing, as the oil gets older it has less capacity to "carry" and contamination around, thats what is left after the filter has had a go anyway.
I would be interested as to why your repairer wants the oil level checked at normal running temp, he must have a reason, and to him this must be important.
Personally I check the oil level cool straight after start up at idle and a couple of moves through the box, I've not had a problem, like many others I suspect.
Interesting...............!
because overfilling a transmission can have just as bad a result as underfilling it and is far more likely to spray hot auto fluid everywhere than a slightly underfull box.
In the case of early transmissions heavy truck and plant gear the oil capacity is such that the temperature variation is enough to cause level problems so the checks are "is there any oil in it" yep cool start'er up and get it going, "is the level correct now the fluid is warm?" yep, keep operating.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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