Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: strange v8

  1. #1
    maroochy Guest

    strange v8

    calling the v8 experts. some 2 years ago i purchased a ''maf'' from a member of this forum,a bulk buy i believe,now before i go any further there is no problem whatsoever with that.i did not install this for some time after i received it,and afterwards the car ran perfectly for it must be close to 2 years.however last weekend i decided to ''fiddle'' as you do.having read on these forums that the voltage on certain wires to the ''maf'' should be 1.3 volts, i discovered that mine read .78 volts ,so i decided that this could not be right so i adjusted it to read 1.3 volts. now my troubles started ,immediately the car had less go if i could put it that way and over the next few days it developed the dreaded unstable idle that one reads about,also the revs dropped to almost zero when shifting between drive and reverse when parking etc.now the only thing i had done was fiddle with the maf ,i reset it to read .75 to .78 volts and immediately things are back to normal,beautiful car to drive.now what i would like to know is what does the difference in voltage do ? does it alter the mixture at idle,across the rev range,or not at all .am i doing any damage with this quite different voltage setting,as it is the engine is as quite as a mouse and idles and runs beautifully,so is it a case of ''if it ain't broke don't fix it or what,by the way it's a 98 discovery (sorry about that)
    maroochy

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Springwood
    Posts
    161
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Mmmm.....It's not possible to make any adjustments to the MAF without the right equipment and voltage tables are very often incorrect.

    The 'hot wire' type (which I think your's is) has a heated wire element suspended in the air stream, as the air flows over this wire it draws the heat out. This reduces the resistance of the wire therefore allowing more current to flow. The circutry in the MAF measures the current flow and sends a corrisponding voltage to the PCM.
    When you open up the accelarator, more air flows over the 'hot wire' and cools it down, reducing the resistance which allows more current flow. The MAF sends the correct voltage to the PCM, which increases the injector on time.
    Here's a link which explains all the different types and how they work. [ame="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_flow_sensor"]Mass flow sensor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia@@AMEPARAM@@/wiki/File:Mass-airflow.jpg" class="image"><img alt="" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e8/Mass-airflow.jpg/220px-Mass-airflow.jpg"@@AMEPARAM@@commons/thumb/e/e8/Mass-airflow.jpg/220px-Mass-airflow.jpg[/ame]

    I'm not sure how it changes the voltage's in your case.

    I would be very impressed if you have managed to get it back at it's correct voltage. The only way to know is to look at fuel trims (if possible) and the output from the Oxygen sensor....... Put that multimeter down . For that you need a scan tool or scope. A analogue multi meter may do the job, not sure. Or an exhaust gas analyser.

    "so is it a case of ''if it ain't broke don't fix it or what,"

    Or 'if you don't know how it works, don't fix it".


    HTH.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney, you know. The olympic one.
    Posts
    4,853
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The flapper type has a black plastic plug under which there's a socket head screw that adjusts the flap. Is that the one? A pic of the offending AFM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Springwood
    Posts
    161
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If it is the 'flapper type' technically that is an airflow meter not a MAF (mass air flow). I have been pulled up on that a number of times.

    The air trying to move through that sensor pushs against the spring loaded flap. The more you put your foot down the more air is pumped through the engine therefore more air trys to get past that flap and the more it pushs the flap back.
    Internally there is a potentiometer and the flap is connected directly to this potentiometer. As the flap moves it creates a variable voltage on the signal wire to the PCM.

    The adjustment is the 'air by-pass screw'. That mainly effects the idle mixture. Although it will effect the rest of out put voltages to a certain extent. More down the bottom end.
    It works by allowing unmetered air through without passing the flap. There fore the more the screw is screwed out, the less air pushs on the flap at idle. This sends a lower voltage to the PCM which then reduces the injector on time. Which gives you a leaner mix. And vicer versa.

    One problem this type of meter can have is flat spots at certain RPM (there is a post on here that suggest's this could be the fault). This is caused by the carbon track in the potentiometer being worn thin in a well used part of the track. This results in the PCM receiving a reduced voltage output. Again going lean.

    Hope that makes sense.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    14,152
    Total Downloaded
    0
    by the way it's a 98 discovery (sorry about that
    )

    A 98 Disco1 has 14CUX with a Hitachi 5AM MAF, which has a preset bias adjustment on the engine facing end.
    It should ideally be 1-1.2 volts which should be set with an exhaust gas sniffer to get the required unburnt HC. If it has catalysts and o2 sensors, then the bias should be 1.5volts.
    Maybe your injectors are old and drooly, and the MAF has been set to get the correct HC.
    If it runs better at .78 volts then don't worry . Of course your Multimeter may be wrong as usually that is quite lean.
    This setting affects mixture at low throttle openings as well as idle.
    Regards Philip A

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!