Thread: Im confused

so,, when it gets higher in the rev range it goes very well? yes?

does the guage show its getting up to temp? yes?

sounds like the air flo meter--
or vac-advance
(say your current Kpl figures and scare a few rattler owners)


read here---
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...mption-v8.html

As a precaution I would change the dizzy cap and rotor arm anyway. Might as well eliminate them from the equation before you start spending money on expensive bits.

I would get the injectors checked.My last Rangie with a Disco 3.9 in it had no vac advance for a while and still ran o.k,just a little variable in revs and not great fuel economy.I second a check of your air flow meter is a good idea so just pull the plug and see if it runs any different for a start and then check the volts it's running at,I have mine set at 1.3 and she's running really sweet.Also the IAC is worth a check also,there is a good technical page on setting all this somewhere.
Cheers
Shane

She has been running very rich which makes me think its the air flow meter, but I just checked that and its running the same. Im going to go with vac advance. It runs the same through the entire rev range. The temp comes up as normal which eliminates it being the coolant temp sender saying the motor is ice cold.

The temp comes up as normal which eliminates it being the coolant temp sender saying the motor is ice cold.

The gauge and the ECU have different senders.
The gauge one is a single wire at the RH of the thermostat housing and the ECU has a black? injector plug on it. You should check that there is about 300 Ohms resistance when hot.
Next cab off the rank will be the MAF. Pull the plug on the MAF with the motor running. You will soon see if that is the problem No difference = crook MAF . Remember the ECU will not recognise reconnection until switch off then on.
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by Terrain Vehicles

As a precaution I would change the dizzy cap and rotor arm anyway. Might as well eliminate them from the equation before you start spending money on expensive bits.

My experience is ONLY fit genuine cap and rotor. I know they are exxy but most aftermarket ones are rubbish.

JC

Well, i disconnected the MAF and it stalled so i assume thats okay. There is a tappit on the RHS of the motor around cylinder N0.8 could this be a worn cam?

There is a tappit on the RHS of the motor around cylinder N0.8 could this be a worn cam?

Possibly, but rough running and richness is more likely to be caused by a faulty temperature sensor.
Do a compression check and that may tell you something about the cam, but then it may not.
Next in order could be a faulty ignition amplifier and this is in Projects and if you do a search..
Regards Philip A