Thread: Water leak 300TDi

Sounds like the old p-gasket leak.

Roughly:
Remove serpentine belt
Remove water pump
Move Alternator to side, can stay connected though
Remove housing behind water pump that attaches to block
Replace p-gasket - p shaped gasket, get a metal one, I use sealant as well

A search on p-gasket will come up with lots of advice I'd think.

I would look at the water pump and maybe replace that if it hasn't been done for a while, and definitely replace the water pump gasket.

Watch out with the bolts holding it all together they can snap.

Here's a tutorial: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php'showtopic=7547

i'll back ^ that

cool, thanks for the info,
if that is the case it will be way easier than what i thought, i originally thought i had to pull the front of the engine off...again. and if that was the case i was going to wait for when i rodded the radiator.
but i can go ahead and get this done NOW
thanks again

Right on, Nice1guv, when I was changing the Timing Belt on the old '97 Tdi we had a while back, I changed the "P" gasket because it was weeping coolant, I was also advised by a long time Landy mechanic to replace the long bolts that secure the water pump and plate behind it to the engine, the originals were rusted and weakened and if one breaks off on reassembly, bugger!.
I would say if the water pump is ever removed from a Tdi engine that the "P" gasket and long bolts should be replaced because when the pump is undone and removed, the tension is released from the gasket joint faces, the gasket has very little ability to be re-compressed further to form a seal again after years of "cooking" in place.
I know there are quite a few Disco Tdi's out there with coolant leaks from this area, because I have been looking to buy another '97-'98 and a few I have looked at were leaking there, some slightly, some worse.

got a 'P' gasket yesterday, after reading the post from "gazby" i might just go back to Tunstals and get the water pump bolts as well. I fitted a new water pump 10months ago