VR-VS commodore fuel pump will suit, may need slight wiring mod. VDO do a commodore pump.
So I believe that the fuel pump for my D1 is on it's very last legs. It started a couple of weeks ago on the GCLRO DARE trip, where it stalled and would only restart after bashing the bottom of the fuel tank with a rock (thanks again Greg!).
Today was much worse, (it only just managed the 37kms home from work with me bashing several shades of **** out of the tank with a rubber mallet newly installed in the D1 for just such an occasion) the fuel guage kept dying and it would splutter, cough and cut, then the guage would recover and it would run OK for another couple of Kms, then I would go around a corner and it would die again....
Am I safe to assume that this is all fuel pump related?
Is there a Holden/Bosch equivalent to the LR part (which at circa $300 is not what I would call cheap, but I don't want cheap chinese pumps) that I can swap to like this P38 thread?
I've searched and come up with nothing. My searching skills, along with my eyesight, are disappearing fast.![]()
VR-VS commodore fuel pump will suit, may need slight wiring mod. VDO do a commodore pump.
1986 Range Rover Hiline
2004 D2 TD5
I use the Bosch pump, part no. BFP772, generally around $100. The box contains enough bits to change the pump's wiring connectors if needed.
I got a replacement pump for a Disco 1 from autopro for around $134 all plug and play except in my case the fuel pump had been changed previously for one that must have been lying around, its was 1" shorter than the correct one and the wiring was done by a monkey tripping on lsd. I'm away from home at the moment but i'll be back tomorrow i'll have a look and post up the brand and part number
The pump is a fuel miser FPE-371
Pump out of a Toyota Harrier (Lexus RX) will work as well.
Arent the fuel guage senders part of the fuel pump assembly in these?
Changing to another pump will mean no fuel guage......
The pump is only one part of the assembly. If you are changing just the pump you keep the old fuel gauge float, housing etc. Some housings are damaged beyond repair by melted terminals, damaged float resistor track etc so then you either scrounge another assembly with a dead pump or buy a new complete unit.
I bought the correct part. That way I knew it was right. I did not want to spend time later on playing around with a dodgy fuel gauge. If you have to pay someone to do this job, why pay them twice?
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