Thread: Rate my Recovery Points

Those woosey things you removed weren't recovery points. I'm not sure what they were for.

(I'm not sure your headlight protectors will be legal on-road. )

I'm not sure about the legality of something protruding forward from the bullbar - might 'knife' pedestrians too easily.
Have you considered building a couple of suitably sized pieces of SHS into the bar, Hayman Reese style? You could then fit, when required, either one of those recovery tongues that take a shackle or fit a standard tow tongue and ball for manouvering trailers etc.
A bit like the following picture but mounted lower down in the bar itself.

I imagine that 10mm A360 will be well strong enough in tension - the limiting factor will be the amount of material you leave surrounding the shackle hole. Your rough drawing should be fine really.

BUT

They will be protruding from the forward line of the vehicle... and will really whack a shin or two I imagine!!!! Also, Tank will get cranky with you as the eyelet is in the wrong plane Maybe do a search on that one!

I think your on the right track but pperhaps refine the concept a little.

Steve

What hardness plate are you going to use?

There are a few dimensions that would be required to workout the pull out force which are not on the diagram but I'd say that what ever you put on will be better than the transport tiedown points that were on the bar previously. You will have to recess them in to ensure they are not going to impale someone.

Make sure you reduce the sharp edges to prevent the plate biting into your shackles.

If you want to do it right then look at swivelling collared Eye bolts, while you have the bar off box the ends of the chassis rails with a 1/2" thick plate on the end, either with a threaded hole for the eyebolt or just a plain hole with a nut on the end of the eyebolt, best setup by far. Can be removed easily for rego and will allow for correct alignment of shackle, i.e. the pin in the vertical alignment which allows the shackle to be pulled in a direct alignment with the diriection of pull, Regards Frank.
Posts that roverrescue was referring to, http://www.aulro.com/afvb/verandah/1...-1-2-a-10.html

How about something like this???

I took what Xtreme posted and ran with it in my own variation;





This is only a quick roughy I chopped out this arvo, its a little thin in the wall and too big to accept a hayman reese tounge but its just what I found lying around to fiddle with.




I thought if I have to chop some more bar appart I may as well try and get it to double as Hi-Lift point.

I can run it between the 2 mounting plates that go either side of the chassis rails, and stitch weld it in a few places, there is also enough meat there to get possibly 2 (definatly 1) 1/2" bolt through the whole lot (in shear). Still only relies on the 3 1/2" bolts that hold the bar to the chassis but surely thats strong enough???



Reciever pin can be accessed from the top of the bar in front of the grill.

your second concept is a lot better (and I've seen it before built into a bar)

couple of things to watch is where you weld it into and how deep you make it for the pin if you intend for it to take a haymen reece reciever.

other than that its a sound and legal idea providing it doesnt interfere with any crush or crumple points.

Good idea to have the pin coming down from the top.
However, I wouldn't have any part of the SHS protruding forward of the existing bar.
Build a removable adaptor for use with the high lift jack and use one of those removable solid square section recovery thingo's when needed for recovery.