Thread: Can the Hand brake effect an auto trans?

Originally Posted by Gremlin

Yep, couldn't have described it better myself. Out of curiosity, how hard and how long would it take to do what you recommend steve? Not affraid of getting my poor old hands dirty but if it requires learning how to become a contortionist, I'm affraid I might be just a little past my prime

100% from memory
1) remove rear propshaft from brake drum, 9/16" or 14mm spanners x2 needed. Time to break out the propshaft tool if you have it.
You may need to remove the rear end (where it meets the rear diff) if it is a doughnut fitting then I don't know if there is a recommended set of bolts to remove, but these look like about a 19mm
2) Wind the handbrake adjuster in. On the left hand side rear as you look to the front of the car. I think a 13mm ring spanner will modify it.
The adjuster kind of clicks over settings, you just wind it all the way in.
3) I haven't worked on a cable into drum one, so not entirely sure what the different is here, but you need to remove the pin from the rod for the rod actuated one (this can be a git).
4) Undo the big screw on the drum and pull off. should come off without too much effort.
5) You can now remove the shoes by taking the springs off.
6) The expander on the right side has two pistons, when you pull the rod you see a champhered item pull through which causes the pistons to move out.
7) make sure you grab these pistons, they may make a bid for freedom as you remove the shoes (the lower one especially).
8) the adjuster can be greased and worked in and out to ensure that is happy.
9) clean up the parts on the exapander, make sure the mechanism is tight on the drum back plate.
10) grease the pistons and replace.
11) Put thes shoes and springs back in (fun!)
12) put the drum back on and screw
13) move the adjuster fully out and it should lock the shoes on. Then move the adjuster back 1 - 3 clicks
14) test the action with the handbrake lever. Alter adjustment as needed
15) ensure drum is free across whole rotation

Then bascially put the propshaft back on and bask in the glory.

It really isn't a difficult job, an extra pair of hands can reduce frustration level when putting the shoes back on.. though I just checked and I reckon later handbrakes have the expander vertical, making the reassembly less of a drama.

Originally Posted by Spel1

Good description of the brake work.

Originally Posted by Spel1

While you have all the parking brake parts off, you may as well check for, or fix the transfer case oil leak which may have caused this problem in the first place, it would be a pain if it still leaked after all this. (Sorry if this has been mentioned previously). To fix, you will need to unbolt the output flange (might help to loosen the flange bolt with the brake on before taking it all apart), but replacing the output shaft seal is a simple job, prise the old one out, tap the new one back in. Clean up the seal face on the flange with a scotchbrite pad too before reinstallation. If you get the seal from a Rover parts supplier like British Auto Parts British Car Components - spares and parts for British cars, Melbourne Victoria, Australia or whoever is closest, you will get the felt washer with it also which stops the dirt getting in.

One other tip on the brake adjustment: make sure you don't adjust the brake shoes too tight from the drum adjuster as they may bind and catch, if your handbrake lever lever still comes up too high, adjust the cable from inside the console, the nut around the cable at the base of the lever - turning anti-clockwise (I think) brings the lever down. Have fun.

Thank you Spel1. Don't you just love these cars They can give you some grief at times but if you're willing to put just the smallest amount of time and effort in it can be so rewarding.

Land Rovers, designed by men with nagging wives in mind