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Thread: Skipped Timing Belt Symptoms on Drowned Tdi ?????

  1. #1
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    Question Skipped Timing Belt Symptoms on Drowned Tdi ?????

    Hi Everyone

    As some may have read i drowned my D1 about a month ago , we have just honed it, put in; new rings, new head gasket and new injectors (cos i can). Anyway we put it all back together but the motor is still 'tight' when it cranks and won't start, although it does fire occaisionally. When the pistons and rods were out (everything is straight by the way [con rods, push rods and crankshaft]) the motor would spin over freely, but when it cranks it has a sort of irregularity, and sort of heaves itself over, then comes up against a lot of compression, this process drains the battery and it seems to backfire and throw back on the starter (Aerostart was sprayed in). This got dad and i thinking that it may have skipped a tooth on the timing belt, and the timing would be all over the place (why it has lots of compression and fires sometimes, but won't run).

    Now for another question. How do you find TDC without removing anything major, our idea was to pull the front injector out, then put a bit of wire or something through the hole and turn it over on the crankshaft pulley, until the wire protrudes as far as possible, then when number 4 cylinder is rocking (supposed to be, as it may be out a bit if it skipped a tooth) you have TDC, then if the number 4 cylinder is not rocking it has skipped a tooth. Then we pull the timing cover off as Rave 1 says and fix it.

    Does this all sound OK

    (it's only because we don't have the special tools and don't want to go to the bother of what the manual says)

    Cheers
    Will

  2. #2
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    check out the threads on timing belts..

    get under the vehicle and turn it over slowly till the timing slot lines up in the bell housing "drain" hole and thats TDC on the crank on pot 1
    Whip off the Aircon belt tensioner and line up the IP pully holes and thats it for pump phasing (if its out turn the crank 360 more and recheck)
    For the cam... well thats a little hit and miss without stripping the timing cover but #4 valves should be on the rock

    Check the pics in This post then read this post out of this Thread
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
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    Thanks Dave, i'll go and do that now, do the symptoms sound like a slipped timing belt to you?, had a bit of a read through your posts, geez you know your stuff.

    Cheers Mate

    Will

  4. #4
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    When you mention the drain hole of the bell housing, is that the one right at the bottom or the one that holds the diamond shape cover on (bigger bolt), the 'drain hole' at the bottom of the bell housing is open, is that right (was like that). Valves on no. 4 are rocking when the timing pin hole thingy on the flywheel lines up with the bigger bolt hole for the diamond shaped cover. ????!!!!????

    Cheers
    Will

  5. #5
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    Sounds like you have an Auto?
    If so you remove the diamond shape cover and screw in the locking pin horizontaly from the engine side. if you don't have the proper pin you can make a locking pin from 1/4 BSP brass blank plug from the local plumbers, drill a hole in the center and use the non pointy end of the drill bit to lock the flywheel. Buy 2 x BSP plugs if you need a wading plug for the front timing cover as they also work there as well.

    Also, Make sure you get the right notch in the flywheel as I think there are a couple I seem to recall, If I can find my plug i'll let you know the drill bit size required for the hole, I think it was around 5mm from memory.

    Cheers

    mark

  6. #6
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    the valve timing sounds about close..

    try this...

    crack all the injector unions, turn the engine over twice by hand you should feel 4 distinct firm spots that are about equal. If thats the case key it over.

    It should turn over in a regular rythm if it doesnt then you are either low on compression or have something bent/fouling. If it does then the IP timing is out and its injecting too early and trying to push the engine around backwards.

    If its not turning over evenly on the starter start out by checking the valve clearances and the protrusion on the lash adjusters. they should be all about the same in terms of adjusting screw protrusion and clearance. Once youve checked them turn the engine over on the start a few times and check again, if they havent shifted then its not a bent pushrod. (dont forget to check and change the lash caps)

    When you are cranking it what colour are you getting out the exhaust?
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  7. #7
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    Well i feel like a bit of a dipstick, because after a new battery, i held the throttle flat and it started within a few turns, it seems even after 2 days on charge the battery was completely stuffed. all is good now, no smoke, pulls on hills, accelerates, essentially it is like new, i love it.

    Thanks to everyone for help and advice

    Cheers
    Will

    P.S. is that plug hole right at the bottom (screws in vertically) of the bell housing suposed to have a plug in it, because it doesn't.

  8. #8
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    Talking Them Plug Thingies.

    Yes, LR jnr, that hole should be plugged with a hex headed plug, it is called a "wading plug" there is also supposed to be one at the bottom of the front timing belt cover, both these plugs, they cost $3.50 each from your LR parts man, are often removed on the premiss that if the engine or gearbox oil seals leak you will see a "oil show" at the plug hole. But as the name "wading plug" suggests they perform an important task, this begs the question, does the average Disco owner that chooses to remove said plugs for all times know more than the Solihull engineers that designed the beastie?
    I have the plugs in our 300Tdi fitted at all times and remove them to check for "oil show" whilst I am servicing the vehicle (every 10,000 k's). The plugs are there to stop the ingress of water and dust, mud etc into these sensitive areas (timing chest and clutch), and they are particularly useful for those of us who use our Discos for what they were intended, not just shopping and running the kids to school.

  9. #9
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    My car is automatic (unfortunately, but i got a good deal when i bought it), dad seems to think the auto's don't need them, but he was a dealer not a mechanic so i thought i'd ask, i'll check if there is one in the timing cover but i'll put one in i spose

    Cheers
    Will

  10. #10
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    you only need the bottom ones if your wading or driving in mud

    the one that faces forwards should always be fitted.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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