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Thread: New Disco 1 Rebuild

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    New Disco 1 Rebuild

    Hi All,

    Having just become the new owner of a 1994 3 door manual Discovery, I need lots of help.

    A few photos.
    (Edit right click open in new window)
    IMAG0118.jpg
    IMAG0119.jpg
    IMAG0120.jpg
    Any chance a mod can fix them?
    More to come as soon as I get the camera sorted.


    Now that's the Important Stuff done lets get down to brass tacks. She is a Feb '94 Build date, complianced in May '94, which causes all sorts of problems (for me anyway.) Licensed and was running (well sort of.) The body is pretty straight, except a big dingle in the drivers door, creased rear quarter panel, slightly creased front quarter and a not-very-well bogged passenger door. And it came with a spare green stripped drivers door. (Read 'Anyone want to swap for a Savarian White one?') And NO rust anywhere. I know that seems hard to believe so if anyone knows some rust prone spots... Alpine windows and top of windscreen are rustless. Needs shocks, a few bushes and brake pads. Havn't really explored the depths so don't know what luxuries don't work. Did I mention the engine is S@$#%&t. Has a head that I think was cooked and has gone soft so needs a new head. The previous owner (who cooked it and replaced the head gasket twice on a soft head but won't admit it ) said the aircon and central locking works but I can't seem to find out why they don't work. Also the electric mirrors don't move. I've done some minor fault testing with the wiring but have come up with a blank. Is there a way to test each mirror directly?

    Wiring seems to be a mix of pre and post '95 specs so if anyone has any details about the changeover models it would be great. VIN is SALLJGBF7MA085... Has the 'facelift' and I think a 300tdi. I'm a little confused about how to tell a 200 from a 300. Turbo and exhaust manifold are one unit. Any other ways to tell the difference?

    Now, on a fairly tight budget, (I know it's a bad idea for a Landy) what can I do. I want a reliable vehicle so cosmetics come second to mechanicals. Am thinking it might be economical to upgrade at the same time as replace so here's my thoughts. Will be flushing the radiator or would an aftermarket larger one be better for the motor? Don't know where I would put the intercooler though. Am thinking cheap short term head fix is to whack a secondhand head on (anyone got one? I have a mate who can check and test it for me at a good price) with a new gasket and an EM2 sensor and know it's only going to last so long. Just to get the old girl going (need a car) and don't mind if she's down on power and blows smoke 'till I sort out what I want to do re the head and motor. At 370ks she's about due for a motor overhaul, have pulled the head off (pics later) and she's pretty worn down in the pots so seems to have been poorly serviced for at least some of her life though the body and interior suggests that she lived in a garage and was only driven hard. I intend to rebuild the/a motor for her when funds permit.

    Looking forward to your comments from your extensive experience.

    Thanks,
    Lane
    Last edited by lane; 14th April 2012 at 11:42 PM. Reason: Picture problems

  2. #2
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    mate, to be honest without seeing it (the pics dont work), it sounds knackered, there are plenty of discos out there, IMO it will be much cheaper in the long run to buy another that has a straight body and a decent engine, the one you currently have sounds fit for wrecking but that is about it. I know it sounds harsh, and you probably wont listen anyway, but have a think about it

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Your 300tdi ( Yes, it's post upgrade - the changeover was chassis #081991) is sitting at the 50% point. As owner of SALLJGBF7MA088***, I can tell you that your project could go either way. The biggest stumbling block is, well, the block. How it survived the damage is important - bores and deck and crank. If the deck is warped too much, then no head is going to work. If the bores are deeply scored, then no compression.

    Get yourself the RAVE & EPC CD's from SHOP (Top toolbar). Within RAVE is the overhaul manual for the 300tdi.

    If the deck ends up reasonable, and the bores/crank are not too bad, then a set of bearings,rings and a new head will get it back to decent condition.
    Unlike an old 6 or v8, the 300tdi needs certain things to be up to spec for it to survive.

    Also within the RAVE is the electric troubleshooting guide, which lets you fix all those other things you've said.

    It's all do-able, it will just take time

    Good luck

  4. #4
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    you probably wont listen anyway
    Yep, She's really not that bad and at the price I got her for I'm not complaining. I'll get the pics sorted.

    it sounds knackered
    Mate, I think she's got plenty of life left in her, having driven a '96 Tdi with the same km's, for two months on a holiday (I knew every little fault by then) this one is in infinitely better condition apart from the engine.

    If the deck is warped too much, then no head is going to work.
    I'll check that thanks. Being steel though does the deck often warp? I thought the head usually goes before the block being alloy.

    If the bores are deeply scored, then no compression.
    Actually the bores aren't scored, just "glossed" I believe the term is. Definitely not glazed. By worn I mean they could do with a set of oversize rings. However I drove her home on two pots so as long as the motor goes

    As I said, I intend to rebuild the engine given the funds later. Even better I'll keep an eye out for a good one to reco as I don't think this engine would benefit from a rebuild. It's had a hard life.

    Thanks,
    Lane

  5. #5
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    300 TDI head choices

    Just a few questions, has anyone used the new style head from Paddocks with the extra cooling galleries? Is it compatable with my standard 300tdi block? And should I just get a replacement radiator or is there a far better aftermarket one (it includes the oil cooler, of course)?

    I'm trying to work out whether to order the standard head or the "new style" one. They're the same price.

    Thanks,
    Lane

  6. #6
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    Pictures

    Do these work?


    DSCF5015.JPG
    DSCF5013.JPG
    DSCF5014.JPG
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
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    My head which has gone soft in the center.
    You can see where it was blowing through to the cooling galleries.
    Does anyone want to swap a blue short door for a white one in Perth.
    DSCF5016.JPG
    DSCF5017.jpg
    DSCF5018.JPG
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    That's a decent enough looking vehicle - and the block looks fairly usable.
    The secret to 300tdi head gaskets (if there is one) is that the block face must be spotless.( Bolt holes clean too)
    And read the overhaul manual a few times over to figure out how the 300tdi engineers do things- it's not exactly like early LR, Ford or GM. Once you have a handle on how to measure up things, it should go back together fine.

    Hint: Google the part number of the 'new style' 300tdi head to find threads (From here and abroad) about it - I've read good things but I can't quote that.

    Hint: If you can afford it, buy yourself a new set of head bolts - the manual says they are good for 5 uses, and I think this could be #5.

    Hint: Think about treating yourself a new timing belt (At least inspect it whilst you have the coolant drained.&/or rad removed). Search (Both here and web) 300 tdi timing belt and you'll find heaps.

    PS: The standard radiator ( if clean) has sufficient cooling for most activities and locations.

  9. #9
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    I have a 98 300tdi auto i bought for 3 grand, every panel is straight, 323,000km, was my aunties car, full history and well maintained, i drowned it a while ago and honed it and put rings in it, and new injectors to bring some life back into it, with rings, and injectors and a head gasket, plus a new battery as we killed it winching it onto the trailer on a hill with the warn, i came out at $800, it's like new in every way, perfect car, paint is even still perfect.We did all the work ourselves and had the tools so no labour cost, parts came from Turner Engineering in the UK. Honestly i hope you didn't spend more than 500 bucks on your car, the cylinder look really worn, and i would look for a wreck to put the engine in your car, it is not economically viable to do up a landy of that vintage in that condition, and i would chuck that motor in the bin, just not worth it. But if you want to do it with an excercise, then you must know you will probably not get back what you put into the car (i.e. money wise), for me i plan to keep the car forever, and mod it when i take it off the road so it was worth it, plus with the drowned engine i would have got $500 bucks for it as a wreck.

    Don't mean to put a dampener on things, but i would avoid that kind of car, sounds like a lemon.

    Cheers
    Will

  10. #10
    Discovery-94 Guest
    maybe this helps with your electrical issues?

    Discovery Electrical

    Good luck!

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