Thread: Wheel bearings while replacing discs.

I'm wondering if one has to replace the wheel bearings at the same time?

No what gave you that idea? maybe repack them seeing you will be taking them off and putting them in a vice , with the possibility of dirt getting in. New seal maybe.
Regards Philip A

May I add - pay attention to preload instructions when replacing the hubs onto the axle. Too tight and the hubs get hot, ruin the seal and leak everywhere. But if you are careful, you'll only need some grease to repack the outer bearings on re-assembly. Perhaps have a hub seal or two handy just in case - that way if one of the old seals is a little dodgy, you can get the job done all in one hit.

ps The bolts for the hub-to-disc are 12 point. (So are the caliper bolts) You'll need a breaker bar to undo them. Make sure you have something to protect the new discs from the jaws of the vice.

Thanks guys, I'll follow the advice. There is a new seal that comes with the kit from Rover Parts so that won't be a problem to replace.
I'll be getting one of those hub spanners too. I have the Haynes book.

I have 6 and 12 point sockets.

Cheers,
Tom.

Originally Posted by tomalophicon

I have the Haynes book.

throw that away, get a RAVE.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

throw that away, get a RAVE.

I find it alright.
What's a RAVE?

Hi There,
Daves shop which is part of this web site,(always good to support the web site), failing that Flea bay usually has RAVE manuals. Considerably cheaper than the Haynes manual and you can set up some really natty search features.

Agree with Black knight.

Originally Posted by tomalophicon

I find it alright.
What's a RAVE?

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6dXoquI_ns8&feature=fvwrel]White rabbit - Rave party 2011 - YouTube[/ame]

Won't be getting much work done on the landie if you go to one of these....




jc

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

throw that away, get a RAVE.

Sorry don't agree - get both.

The RAVE tends to be for mechanics who know what they are doing whereas the Haynes is more for dummies like me. A combination of both is the way to go.

I have both and tend to use the Haynes a little more as the RAVE often jumps form one process to another and assumes the mechanic knows what has happened - the Haynes tends to fill in the gaps.

I have a genuine workshop manual for my RRS and it assumes too much knowledge and as such I wish I also had a Haynes for it but they do not exist.

Garry