Thread: bloody bloody bloody landrovers

You just have to smile somedays. At least the head didnt get launched across the room.

I know what you mean.
Just tried to change the timing belt on my 98 TDI. Took everything off that I needed to get to the front cover. Then attempted to undo the Crankshaft/Harmonic balancer bolt. You guessed it. Can't get the bloody thing undone!!!! ARHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!
Tried the breaker bar against the chassis and starter motor. Just bent the breaker bar.
Next tried bar bolted to crank and 2m breaker bar and muscle. Still no hope, but broke the breaker bar. Then bent the second breaker bar.
Tried the rattle gun a few times but this didn't even budge it.

Any suggestions???

Also is this nut Left or right hand thread????? Not stated anywhere so I assume normal (Right) thread????

PS: Also tried heating the head of the bolt with gas, but might need OXY to get it hot enough...

Cheers
Luke

did you check wether some bright spark hasn't welded it in?

Originally Posted by luke68

I know what you mean.
Just tried to change the timing belt on my 98 TDI. Took everything off that I needed to get to the front cover. Then attempted to undo the Crankshaft/Harmonic balancer bolt. You guessed it. Can't get the bloody thing undone!!!! ARHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!
Tried the breaker bar against the chassis and starter motor. Just bent the breaker bar.
Next tried bar bolted to crank and 2m breaker bar and muscle. Still no hope, but broke the breaker bar. Then bent the second breaker bar.
Tried the rattle gun a few times but this didn't even budge it.

Any suggestions???

Also is this nut Left or right hand thread????? Not stated anywhere so I assume normal (Right) thread????

PS: Also tried heating the head of the bolt with gas, but might need OXY to get it hot enough...

Cheers
Luke

You certainly won't shift it with a 1/2 inch drive socket. A 3/4 drive socket and bar will improve your chances. Normal RH thread.

I'll second that !

A 3/4" drive breaker bar with socket and a metre plus lump of pipe on the handle is the minimum required to release the bind on the bolt.

It helps also if you get the 27mm socket that is six point and not a twelve point and the front balancer is correctly held by a tool bolted on to it by four bolts.
Don't try and stop the crank turning over by using the timing pin in to the bottom of the flywheel.
.

Easy! Pop your breaker bar on and turn her over. Worked for me with a torque wrench on it, (unintentionally.)


Lane

Tried the breaker bar against the chassis and starter motor. Just bent the breaker bar.

Sorry didn't see that.

Just spent some $$$ on a 27mm impact socket and breaker bar (Both are 3/4" Drive). Will try again next weekend. This weekend SNOW maybe.

Cheers
Luke

Got round to trying to change timing belt again.
4hrs later after making tool to hold crank in place with 4 bolts and braced up against the chassis. Took 2 blokes and a 1.5m extension to the 3/4" breaker bar to loosen.
Once off everything went easy. Original LR belt was about 133K old and still had the LR writing on the belt. Replacement belt was by DAYCO but 7 teeth shorter???? Aparently it is correct. Have to remove the ilder pulley and tensioner pulley to fit but does. Turned it over by hand for a couple of turns and all seems ok.
Cranked it over with the key but no fuel, still ok.
Replaced everything back to where it belongs and started it first go. All ok and feels a bit stronger in the power & Troque when driving.