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Thread: Replacement Flares???

  1. #11
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    Ok I understand now about camel cutting I think. I'll see how I go might look at both options as I'm handy with a dolly and hammer.

    Those flares do look very similar I don't mind buying the set I just didn't even know where to start to look thou

    Any ideas where to buy them for the best price?

  2. #12
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    Keep in mind that the flares will aslo need cutting to match the 'camel cut', there is a set of flares that came on later D1's that stop at the creas in the doors (where the plastic trim goes) so they don't go to the bottom of the guards,m they mihgt be better for your application.

    Cheapest parts 99% of the time come from England...

  3. #13
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    What's the best websites to use or just use eBay?

    Buying landrover bits is all new to me. I can help anyone that wants dirt bike bits.lol

  4. #14
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    Mate save yourself some money .Clark rubber sells them by a meter at around 25 bucks .You need 4 meters .They have them in 50 and 75 mm width .
    George
    If you can't fix it with a hammer , you got an electrical problem .......

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by manchild21000 View Post
    Mate save yourself some money .Clark rubber sells them by a meter at around 25 bucks .You need 4 meters .They have them in 50 and 75 mm width .
    George
    no no no no, if you can afford it, get the proper moulded flares, each to their own but that dodgy flare bought by the metre belongs on Hilux's and Cruisers....not a Rover

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2_door View Post
    no no no no, if you can afford it, get the proper moulded flares, each to their own but that dodgy flare bought by the metre belongs on Hilux's and Cruisers....not a Rover
    Moulded flares sure look better ,rubber ones are more practical if you plan to wheel your truck .The fibreglass ones crack easy and like in his case they hard to replace if you want just one . Not to mention dollars . Like you said each to their own and i own a bushpig
    George
    If you can't fix it with a hammer , you got an electrical problem .......

  7. #17
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    Dec 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tdi Nico View Post
    Ok I understand now about camel cutting I think. I'll see how I go might look at both options as I'm handy with a dolly and hammer.
    For cutting you might want to try a grinder with a 1 or 1.25mm (thin) metal cutting wheel, leaves a nice edge. The thin blades do not heat up the paint like the thick ones do. Mark the line you want to cut with masking tape - I like to cut along the edge of the masking tape as it provides a nice clear line. Also maybe consider making a new bracket (some call them Z brackets) to push the back of the guard out too, I needed to do that even with a camel cut as my wheels have a wider offset than stock which yours might have too. Simon

  8. #18
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    Jun 2012
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    Ilike the idea of having both acctually this is truck is only for towing and camping this will not be a commuter at all. So i think i will try to replace the original flares and do the camel cut for my tyres get some black sunnrasiers with like 15-25mm offset then add the rubber stuff to keep it leagal. Think it will look tuff. It's not going to ever be a toorak tractor with a winch, spotties and LED light bar plus the small winch in the rear bar to pull bigger logs on the trailer for the camp fire shes a campin' wag'n.

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