Thread: Automatic is doing weird things!!

Hi

You should be checking the level at idle at first start up ie cold. It should be between the levels on the stick.
But it sounds to me like your box might be retiring soon.

L

Oh ok thanks for that, i'll check it when its cold

Yeah thats my fear... funny though 5,000kms ago when i got it, it was like new, might send it into the LR place and get one of dads mates to have a geeze.

But i'm not going to drive it for fear of damaging it. If i take it somewhere it will go on the trailer.

Cheers
Will

UPDATE!!

Let the car cool down and checked the ATF level again, put it in 1 then back to P, checked level and it looks to be on or below the bottom mark when it is cold!!!

So not sure whats going on, is the ATF low??? Should the levels change that much with temperature??

Rave says to check it at operating temperature though...

Cheers
Will

Have a read of

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...uid-level.html

You will some diverging views but a general consensus that cold is the way to go - it certainly says cold in the owners handbook.

And yes, temperature will make a very significant difference on the level - the fluid expands a fair bit with heat.

L

Cheers mate

I'll top up the ATF and see what happens, service is due in 5kkm, might even bring it forward and give it a flush aswell and see what happens.

But from what i've read it doesn sound like a lowe fluid type of issue...

Cheers
Will

sounds exactly like a low fluid issue to me.....

any other issues will arise once you've got the fluid level right and stall check it...

I noticed mine was hesitant to change up when cold just before I lost drive altogether and ended up with a full rebuild. Mine was premature as it had only done 115k at the time but it was due to excessive heat when towing.

Auto Trans Australia at Alexandria (Automatic Transmission Serivce & Repairs to Bmw - Saab - Volvo - Range Rover Transmissions and Valve Body - We offer and Sell Transmission Parts) know ZF boxes really well and I got them to do the rebuild. They do a lot of work for the LR dealers so you may as well cut the middle man out if you are going to get it checked out.
Chances are though they won't be able to diagnose properly without pulling it apart (no diagnostics port on these early ZF's). I heard somewhere there is a governor valve that sometimes gets stuck/blocked and is accessible without removing the box. That would probably be the best case scenario though assuming the fluid level proves to be ok. Anything else such as worn friction plates would require box removal and $$$.

The fluid on mine looked red enough on the dipstick but when I drained the sump it was in fact brown and smelled burned with fibrous bits in it : (

Cheers
Mark

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

sounds exactly like a low fluid issue to me.....

any other issues will arise once you've got the fluid level right and stall check it...

Cheers Dave, thats what i wanted to hear from a bloke like you

When i bought it off my aunty they told me it did have a very very slow leak and needed topping up occaiionally, however it always seemed full on the stick... :/ due to me checking it when hot...

Would you suggest to top it up, or completely drain it and fluch it out then fill it again?

Also as an asside, which sounds like the most stupid question in the world, and probably is. Will the larger cooler increase the oil capacity??? And how does one go about draining and filling the system with this in place, is it just as you would with the facotry one?? With maybe a slightly larger capacity?

Cheers
Will