Thread: Disco 1 TX air-conditioning valve

Just make sure they know what they are doing. Seen my thread regarding heater core continous heat. That happened as they didn't seal up the heater core after installation properly. It is a good idea to do the heater core as the dash is out but...... I ended up just connecting the 2 heater hoses together in the engine bay for summer. Mind you its much cooler now than it ever was, surprsing how much heat is generated through the heater core during summer, but still would have preferred it done properly

Originally Posted by steelo

I've been told TX is blocked on mine to, they put in a new dryer canister but still having the over pressure problem.

If the TX is blocked or the capillary for the feeler bulb is fractured you'll generally see a very low/vacuum suction pressure if the correct amount of refrigerant is being charged (weighed in, not by the sight glass)
The same goes for a blocked dryer.

As the reciever/drier is easily accessible,you will often find a temperature difference on the inlet and outlet pipes if it has some type of restriction.

If the drier has been replaced and back pressures are still low,return gas temperatures are high,airflow,etc,is OK,then the valve probably is faulty.

Unless of course the TX is blocking with moisture,but this would cause an intermittent blockage,not a permanent blockage.

It would work for a while then just turn off, the shop reckons it's because the pressure switch IS working. Then it would only start again either later that day or the next, they've emptied the gas out now so all I have is warm air.

Originally Posted by waltsd

I ended up just connecting the 2 heater hoses together in the engine bay for summer. Mind you its much cooler now than it ever was, surprsing how much heat is generated through the heater core during summer, but still would have preferred it done properly

Where about's did you do this??