you havent sealed it up properly or you have the flaps set up on the cables incorrectly.
Just had the Heater core replaced after fitting a TX valve for air-conditioning. Now there is Hot air always coming out from under the drivers dash footwell, with air-con on or not?? I have looked under the drivers side and feels like air is coming out from where the Heater core is located?? Is that supposed to be sealed when put in?? Has anyone replaced the heater core and know what they have done wrong?? or is there a remedy?? (yes posted thread similar, but now realise its the Heater core problem)
'95 300TDI - I now know that is doesn't have a valve to turn the heater coolant off, but this is TOO HOT to handle in Summer!
Thanks
you havent sealed it up properly or you have the flaps set up on the cables incorrectly.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Can you seal it up in situ? how? I didn't do the work myself, thats how it came back from the mechanic?? Not happy!
Replacement heater cores don't come with sealing foam around them. Its possible your mechanic did not replace the foam, allowing hot air to blow out the side (heater cores have a continuous coolant flow). I used ordinary door draft seal foam for mine before installing. It is possible to access the open side of the core (drivers side) if you remove the lower dash panels and a couple of bracing struts. It should be possible to push a foam seal around the core in while it is in place. If there already is foam in place, it will be the control flaps as Dave says. However, after paying all that money, it should be the mechanic's job.
Thanks! Yes, they should fix it, but will they know how!! and therefore I will be stuck again!! Taken it back today to get them to look at it! 2nd time back!!
That's stupid not to supply the foam if it should have it?? It's also not on the RAVE workshop manual??
Wish I had a landrover mechanic near me which would know better?? But I took it their for the air-conditioning TX valve originally as they do mechanical, electric, and air-conditioning repairs!!
Thanks again, at least I may know how to fiix it I really have to myself!!
Update! I've been screwed and they won't fix it as its an "old car" and "we didn't touch that part story??". In the end I either have to take legal action or put up with it!!
But I have solved the heat problem for the time being by connecting the 2 heater hoses together. Now nice and cold, which I suppose I can put up with for the odd day I may want a little heat from the heater??
Has anyone had a problem by doing this??
Why not have a look online for a tap from from another car thats the same hose diameter -then you can just turn it on for winter and off again for summer.
Thanks, was thinking that would be the way to go but hadn't been able to find a tap yet that is not vacum operated from other's I have seen at the auto shops?? Any thoughts on place to get one would be appreciated. Will probably try harder as winter gets closer, or come up with some plan?? Definately nice having the cold air now though, as its going to be 40 ish over xmas period in Perth!!
I might know a trick or 3, Im in perth ATM, send me a PM if you're going to be NOR and I'll see if I can knock a small hole in my schedule for you.
was it a foaming problem or an adjustment problem?
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Buy a 4 port heater valve, remove the vacuum actuator, operate by cable or twist of wire. Easy. VS-VY Commodore V6 uses a 16mm version, some Fords use a 19mm version. The 4 port valve ensures constant flow through that circuit regardless of position, keeps engine block/head temp even.
Failing that use vacuum from the brake booster area, and operate the heater valve through a vacuum solenoid and a switch or microswitch on the heater controls. XD-XF Falcons used to have an ideal vacuum changeover valve on their heater box to turn off the heater valve. Hard to find these days I suspect.
Another trick is to just wrap a cable tie around the vacuum heater valve for now, remove it in winter.
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