Reply With QuoteAs is my understanding ( I will prob be corrected ) compliance plates are when the vehicle arrived to australia, there should also be a build date on one of the plates...
Good (wet) morning all!
First up thank you! What I learned here was a big help in making the purchase.
She is, a 1999 V8i Auto D1 (picture attached). Not my first Land Rover, that was a 1973 Series III ex military. Sadly written off after being rear ended
She comes with a bout a 2" lift (springs & shocks), with Cooper Discoverer STTs all round.
At purchase It did have a bit of a wonky idle, but after cleaning the MAF and stepper motor, which also needed a new washer, the idle has settled down a great deal. A little injector cleaner in the fuel helped too.
Engine oil has been changed, with gearbox, transfer case and diffs to follow. When I'm really enthusiastic I'll get around to the spark plugs and leads. New springs for door locks are also ready to be installed.
Now, I have a couple of questions that I hope someone might be able to help with.
The first, is a bit of a basic one. However... most parts places I've look up show the D1 as ending 1998, yet my compliance plate shows 5/1999. Presumably it is a '99 build of the '98 model? Would this be correct?
Second, the air-box. It has a square box with front feed. I'm looking for a snorkel however most fitting diagrams I see (Safari or Air-flow) show an air box with a side feed. I'm not averse to sealing up the front and opening the side, but surely it must be simpler. Any ideas?
Lastly, I've just noticed a split in the dust cover of the LHS front hub. A cheap part I know but a little oil seems to be evident on the wheel. Could this be a bigger problem?
Anyway, thats enough from me. Otherise, just want to say thanks for a great forum.
Cheers,
Gus.
Master
As is my understanding ( I will prob be corrected ) compliance plates are when the vehicle arrived to australia, there should also be a build date on one of the plates...
Master
Welcome to the forum and hope you enjoy your disco.
You should find it has a "WA******" chassis number, signifying a 98 model build, and the last of the D1.Originally Posted by disco2_dan
And welcome!
[EDIT] I may be wrong, as I vaguely remember there being some later chassis numbers that were supposed to be for commercial D1s, whilst the D2s were in full production.
Last edited by sheerluck; 12th February 2013 at 09:49 AM. Reason: Added some
Thank you for the replies... when it's a little drier out there I'll go have a hunt for the chassis number.
Cheers
ChatterBox
Welcome!!
When ordering parts I've found the supplier is more interested in the chassis VIN than year, so find that and you should have no problem with ordering parts.
The oil leak out the dust cap is most likely a leaking oil seal at the back of the stub axle letting swivel pin oil through. You have two options:
1. Replace the oil seal, repack wheel bearings with grease.
2. Convert to oil lube wheel bearings.
A lot of people prefer (2). Some time ago I replaced the seal in mine, but now I've decided oil lube hubs are better anyway, so shortly I'm about to pull it all apart again and just remove the seal, converting to oil hubs. Up to you!
A copy of the workshop manual is your friend and mandatory item for Landy ownership if you plan on doing any work yourself. With that (and maybe a few forum questions) you can easily see how to go about either option.
Thanks mate, I was kinda thinking it might be a seal. I'll do a bit of reading and decide which way I want to go.Welcome!!
When ordering parts I've found the supplier is more interested in the chassis VIN than year, so find that and you should have no problem with ordering parts.
The oil leak out the dust cap is most likely a leaking oil seal at the back of the stub axle letting swivel pin oil through. You have two options:
1. Replace the oil seal, repack wheel bearings with grease.
2. Convert to oil lube wheel bearings.
A lot of people prefer (2). Some time ago I replaced the seal in mine, but now I've decided oil lube hubs are better anyway, so shortly I'm about to pull it all apart again and just remove the seal, converting to oil hubs. Up to you!
A copy of the workshop manual is your friend and mandatory item for Landy ownership if you plan on doing any work yourself. With that (and maybe a few forum questions
Thanks!
Master
SubscriberAirflow and Safari both feed from the side, you are correct, this is done by making a hole in the side of the existing airbox and sealing up the front one after removing the inlet horn. This really is a minor job compared with fitting the snorkel parts through the front guard. (All sealing should be done with polyurethane, not silicone - bonds to plastic better). I pop-riveted an aluminium plate to the front of my airbox to cover the hole. The benefit of a snorkel with this kind of inlet also gives you room for a second battery up front. Simon
Ok, thanks for that! Also puts end to my pondering of where to put the second battery
Posting Permissions
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks