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Thread: THINK I BOUGHT A LEMON!!!

  1. 1st April 2013, 06:52 PM #21
    30t of coolness
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    The hub should have the "one shot" molly grease in it not oil to stop (or at least slow ) the leakages.
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  2. 1st April 2013, 08:08 PM #22
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    steelo
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    Talking

    He told me he put oil in so I presume he means oil, whats this grease & where can I get it please
    Thanks
    ps the oil only seems to leak if its sitting for more than 24 to 36hrs
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  3. 1st April 2013, 08:38 PM #23
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    clubagreenie
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    Depends, it may have been changed to use oil. Don't mix the oil and grease.
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  4. 1st April 2013, 09:00 PM #24
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    steelo
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    Mine, being a 96, has the drain & filler/level bolts & the ball is a shiny mirror finish chrome, at least the parts that the hub go over are LOL
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  5. 1st April 2013, 09:48 PM #25
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    clubagreenie
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    The seals pretty easy to change. Pull wheel, remove caliper, 6 (or maybe 7) bolts on the housing flange, about 8 bolts on the seal retainer. Change seal, replace. Maybe 2 hours the first time, an hour the second.
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  6. 9th April 2013, 04:25 PM #26
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    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by clubagreenie View Post
    The seals pretty easy to change. Pull wheel, remove caliper, 6 (or maybe 7) bolts on the housing flange, about 8 bolts on the seal retainer. Change seal, replace. Maybe 2 hours the first time, an hour the second.
    It is leaking on the inside around ball, had a good look yesterday whilst changing rubber on sway-bar bolts, so would that still be the same?
    Thanks
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  7. 9th April 2013, 06:56 PM #27
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    clubagreenie
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    When you say inside, do you mean against the chrome surface? If so then yes. If its at the flange between the ball and diff housing then just unbolt and pull a few inches (may not even need to pull caliber). Clean faces and reveal with silastic. There is a gasket but I've not used one in 30 years.
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  8. 9th April 2013, 07:33 PM #28
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    Question

    Yeah on the chrome ball, the little bolts (size 8mm I think) which hold a circular type plate on to the inside of hub where the ball swivels are covered in oil.
    Ta
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  9. 9th April 2013, 10:11 PM #29
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    clubagreenie
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    That plate is the retainer for the swivel seal. Replace as per first instructions.
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  10. 14th April 2013, 08:47 AM #30
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    Angry

    Hmm another issue - I had the radiator & engine rodded, flushed etc a couple of weeks ago & everything was fine driving around Hervey Bay. Drove to Brissy & actually got the Cruise Control to work (yea haa) & noticed whilst on flatter ground the floor tunnel was actually cold (read normal for other cars), temp gauge still read normal at about 1/4. Soon as I had to use normal drive the tunnel warmed up but temp gauge still on 1/4. I had to take daughter in for an MRI near the Valley, & in the heavy traffic in the space of a couple of min it went right up to line under the red on gauge oh & tunnel (tran/trans box) was as hot as too. When we left there & avoided traffic it was alright?????
    I've noticed the auto seems to lag/rev a bit when it gets warm, could the constant stop-start (& I DO mean stop start, lights EVERY little street corner LOL) of the Valley traffic make the lagging/revving auto box have caused the the engine to heat up??? Thermostat maybe???
    I know the auto needs a service, probably slipping bands or such.
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