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Thread: Hella GR66 Cruise Control probs.

  1. #1
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    Hella GR66 Cruise Control probs.

    Seem to be having intermittent operating problems with this.

    Vehicle: '95 D1 Facelift

    First off, when it played up I replaced the damaged 5mm rubber hose to the Vacuum Pump. It was fine for a couple of weeks. Now it appears to be rubbish when first starting out & when I drive home after aprox 2hours in the big smoke it works fine. This is not the first time it has happened either. Drive out, nothing. Drive home, it works. "$&%£"!*&%£

    Wondering whether it is heat initiated or something else?

    Hoses & switches seem to be ok. pedal switch adjustment seems fine & all the rubber tubes have been replaced & when sucking them they appear to be ok Throttle Body assy is free & lubed etc,etc.

    I have road tested it in accordance with the Workshop Manual (ok) & do not want to get started on the 'Changing Parts roundabout'.

    Biggest problem is accessing the CC. ECU thinking it may be a dry solder connection (It's nothing like the pretty picture in the Manual & I can't even identify it amongst all the tight looms & multi-plugs behind the side kick panel)


    Any advice gratefully received.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    remove and test/ check the vac pump, under the aux battery tray, passenger front.
    they have been known to seize/ stick. maybe heat loosens it up?

    jc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  3. #3
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    Thanks Justin. Do you know if the pump will actually run with the vehicle stationary or does it need to get above the road speed of apx. 50km/h or does that just apply to all the other components to activate it? The SM is not all that clear on this.

  4. #4
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    vac pump only operates as the cruise is req, ie when trying to adjust/ maintain speed so difficult to test. start by checking it works when voltage is applied, then continuity to the ecu etc.


    jc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  5. #5
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    Again, thanks.

    Speaking of ECUs, the manual says it's behind the side kick panel but I have read other articles where it's behind the glovebox??????????


    Being a facelift model I think this will always be a problem & maybe it isn't where the book says & why I can't find it. ( pointing & humiliation smiley)

    Ah well, onwards & upwards.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee View Post
    Again, thanks.

    Speaking of ECUs, the manual says it's behind the side kick panel but I have read other articles where it's behind the glovebox??????????


    Being a facelift model I think this will always be a problem & maybe it isn't where the book says & why I can't find it. ( pointing & humiliation smiley)

    Ah well, onwards & upwards.
    Further thought on this. As the pump pulls "normal" air from the tubing it follows that when the system is deactivated & balances out it will draw ambient air in, that air could be very moist & over time could introduce corrosion so one pump goes cactus.

    Anyway went down to the city this am & sure enough the first 5 kms it wouldn't work, then for the next two it did & on the way home it didn't fail me.

  7. #7
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    Trying to get to grips with this & fell at the first hurdle.

    I want to start by removing & inspecting the CC. Main Control Switch
    Service repair no- 19.75.30
    Removing the switch.

    The WM states "See Electrical. Repair, auxiliary switch panel"

    Problem is, that section is not with the manual, nor was the CC section & I had to request it from LR years ago.
    I seem to recall that Credit Cards were involved in getting access to the digital clock in some posts but where they need to be placed I am none the wiser. In fact the clock removal details are not supplied but they do mention special tools for the radio.

  8. #8
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    Smile Switch panel removal

    Grab it at each end and pull it out.

    Easy-peasy. ECU will be cheap 2nd hand from TRS.

    Pete
    Dizzie, 08 D3 TDV6 SE

  9. #9
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    Thanks for that Pete, & will keep that in mind & so far have removed the 'Set/Acc' steering wheel switch only to find a tiny black plastic "frame" inside has collapsed so this may have caused intermittent contact with the circuit.
    Have one of these on order from Phil at TRS (apparently CC with no air bags on this model is very rare) so I'll see how that goes when I get it. You just never know.
    Still haven't run the pump, as the 3 flat terminals are confusing me, & I am assuming 1xA, 1xN + a control circuit but I can't ID them yet. Deffo no power between earth & any of the pins at the plug, switches on or off.
    Spoke to a local Auto Elecn & as a last resort he would need to see it all but if I can try to eliminate some of the stuff so much the better & who knows, I might even fluke it in the process. Wouldn't that be nice?

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