Thread: Bullet Proved Discovery 1 or 2?

Drive line wise if you really wanted to run 35s patrol axel in the front they come in 3.9 or 4.11 salsbury in the rear with a ratio change to match the front maybe defender transfer gears to gain back some of the lost gearing

4hp24 internals in to the 4hp22 case with torque converter out of the 4.6 v8

300tdi would be my my choice but td5 if you want some actual performance

Hi Steve,

I to are once again considering either rebuilding my D1 or buying a later model low mileage D1 and building it up properly as a serious off roader and like you leaving the D3 more for touring etc.

For serious off roading my personal opinion is a late model D1 is the go rather than a D2 for a number of reasons. The only real problem with a D1 is they are internally very small so have very little carrying capacity, but they are far cheaper to make the most of for off roading rather than a D2. A D2 would be far better for touring but you already have a D3 so why build another capable tourer?

For me it would be a V8 not a diesel but that is personal choice as I have plenty of good gear for a V8 D1. Lets talk about this soon.


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either will do the trick, d1's are getting a bit old now so i would go the d2.
lockers KISS with detroit rear and truetrac front, hd axles at the back, suspesion lift and set for anything.
i suggest get a solid rear bar!

There was free shipping on Ashcroft ATB's recently http://www.aulro.com/afvb/verandah/1...er-sale-8.html
Also if you go with a D1 Auto you will want to upgrade the transmission cooler as the stock one struggles when low speed off road, sand etc.
Cheers
Mark

Hey Mate,

I personally would go with a D1 if you are setting up for serious offroad. The 300TDI is a little slow, but you're not buying it for a daily driver, so I wouldn't see that being an issue for you.

The D1 is a little simpler to build up for serious offroading, as they generally don't have the issues of airbags and ABS (though some do). The only issue, some things are becoming harder to come by, such as winch bullbars and decent rear bars.

One main advantage (in my opinion) the D1 has over many of the D2's is they come standard with a Center Diff Lock. Most of the D2's did without this and relied on just their traction control. Nothing wrong with the D2 traction control, I just prefer to be able to lock my center diff.

As for lockers, I would personally go Ashcroft I think, they seem to be pretty much the ducks nuts when you're talking air activated lockers. Otherwise, I would probably suggest Maxi-Drive would be the go, they are vacuum operated and usually come as a complete set of lockers, HD axles, etc. They aren't cheap, but they are meant to be DAMN good.

You will definitely want to change your diff ratio's if you are going to 33's or 35's. 33's I would be going to about 4.11 I guess, as for 35's well I'm not entirely sure, someone else may have a suggestion there. You will probably want to go with a set of crawler gears in the transfer case or at least move to deefer gears if you are going the 35's

35's are notoriously difficult to get "engineered" on a D1 and, as far as I understand it, almost impossible to get "engineered" on a D2. I could be wrong there, but that's my experience. No matter size you choose though, plenty of guard cutting, flares and a positive offset rim will be required.

I personally prefer my manual 300TDI over an auto offroad. I get HEAPS of engine braking (hate using too much brakes if I can help it) and I like the "control" I have with the manual, or at least the illusion of control! Many others will disagree, in the end it's mostly personal preference. If you go the auto route, a bigger\additional trans oil cooler is a must!

Keep in mind, that the law doesn't allow for a great deal of modifications to be done to our 4wd's these days. Engineering\mod plates are seriously expensive, especially when you are talking multiple "major" modifications. You will find probably a good majority of the reasonably modified 4wd's these day's are actually "engineered" and are just running the gauntlet so to speak.

As for the cost of your planned build, well assuming you will use reasonable quality parts, the car is fairly stock and excluding the cost of the car itself.... I would think you are probably looking at well over the $10,000 mark and that also is assuming you are doing most of the labour yourself.

Good luck!

Chris